There is another Hong Kong, and it is half an hour away. The outlying islands — more than 260 of them — sit scattered off the main harbour, and the ferry piers in Central work like a bus terminal to a slower century. Board at pier 4 and in 30 minutes you are walking off at Yung Shue Wan on Lamma, where there are no cars at all and the main street is a row of cafés and craft shops.
Lantau is the big one — twice the size of Hong Kong Island — and it holds both the airport and the territory's most famous sight: the Tian Tan Buddha, 26.4 m of bronze at 520 m above the sea, reached by 268 steps. Around it cluster the Po Lin Monastery, the Ngong Ping 360 cable car with its glass-bottomed cabins, and Tai O, the fishing village on stilts that people call the Venice of Hong Kong.
Lamma and Cheung Chau are the weekend islands. Lamma is the bohemian one — Yung Shue Wan's cafés and bookshops in the north, Sok Kwu Wan's stilted seafood restaurants in the south, and a walking trail between them. Cheung Chau is the fishing port that never stopped working, dumbbell-shaped, no cars allowed, famous for its bun festival, its giant fish balls and its pirate cave.
The islands are cheap by Hong Kong standards. Rooms run about half the city price, seafood is fresher and cheaper than in town, and the ferries themselves — HK$16 to HK$35 — are half the fun. Go in summer for the beaches, in any season for the seafood, and check the typhoon warnings before you commit to a crossing.