The Four Girls are four snow peaks in a row on the eastern rim of the Hengduan Mountains, second in Sichuan only to Gongga Shan. The legend gives them their name: four sisters who fought a demon that was killing the villagers and, dying in the fight, became the mountains. The tallest, Yaomei Feng at 6,250 m, is the one serious alpinists come for; the others are where ordinary walkers and first-time mountaineers start.
Everything funnels through Rilong, a small Tibetan town at about 3,200 m at the foot of the peaks, and from it the three valleys fan out. Shuangqiao is the most developed and the only one with a sightseeing shuttle, so it is a comfortable half-day of snow mountains without effort but also without much participation. Changping is the classic: no road, horses and a boardwalk under the peaks, the Four Girls dead ahead for most of the way.
Haizi is the wild card — 19.2 km long, high, and reached only on foot or on horseback, past grasslands and a scatter of alpine lakes at nearly 4,200 m. It is also the approach for the climb, the local route up Da Feng and Er Feng, and the reason this valley has a climbing culture at all.
This is Tibetan and Jiarong country, not just scenery. Prayer flags on the passes, stone watchtowers in the villages below, butter tea in the guesthouses of Rilong — and, on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the mountain-worship festival on the grassland, when locals face the peaks and burn juniper for them.