Of all the roads into Tibet, this is the one people dream about. The G318 southern route leaves the Sichuan basin at Chengdu and grinds its way up through the Hengduan Mountains — a range of parallel ridges and river gorges so steep that the road gains and loses 2,000 m in a single afternoon. You cross the Jinsha, Lancang, Nu and Yarlung Tsangpo rivers, climb over the Erlang, Zheduo, Jinsha and Nyainqentanglha ranges, and finish on the Tibetan plateau at Lhasa.
The landscape changes faster than the altitude gauge can keep up. Bamboo forest and tea terraces near Ya'an give way to the spruce and yak pastures of Tagong, then to the bare rock and glacial moraine of the high passes, and finally to the birch forests and turquoise lakes of Nyingchi — often called Tibet's Jiangnan, the land of milk and honey. Ranwu Lake, Namcha Barwa and the endless switchbacks of the Nujiang canyon are the images that stay with people.
It is also a working road, not a theme park. Tibetan pilgrims still prostrate their way to Lhasa over three years, truck convoys haul freight up from Sichuan, and every county runs a speed-permit checkpoint system that forces even impatient drivers to stop and wait. Travel it by 4x4 with a driver who knows the passes, and it is one of the great overland journeys in Asia.