Kaohsiung is where the island loosens its collar. South of the Tropic of Cancer, dry and sunny where Taipei is soft and rainy, the harbour city runs on sea air and night markets. The skyline gives you the 85 Sky Tower over the port; street level gives you warehouse art at Pier-2, ferries chugging to Cijin, and couples walking the Love River bank at dusk.
It is a city of pleasant collisions. The former British consulate from 1865 stands on the hill above Sizihwan with its Xiamen red brick and arched verandas; ten minutes away the Formosa Boulevard station holds the largest single-piece glass artwork on earth. A temple to Mazu keeps year-round lanterns burning on Cijin while, across the water, a 102.5-metre Ferris wheel turns on a shopping mall roof.
Eating is the evening plan by default. Liuhe is the famous tourist market — wide, orderly, easy — while Ruifeng is where locals actually queue, over a thousand stalls strong. The south's produce is the point: mango shaved ice piled past the rim of the bowl at Hai Zhi Bing, papaya milk at the stand film stars made famous, and mullet roe grilled over charcoal on Cijin.
Kaohsiung is also the practical hinge of the south. The high-speed rail ends here — Taipei in about 2 hours — Kenting's beaches are a direct bus ride, and day trips reach the Buddhist colossus of Fo Guang Shan and the Hakka paper-umbrella town of Meinong. Two days covers the city; three adds the countryside or the coast.