Nyingchi is the Tibet that surprises people. Instead of bare plateau and prayer flags on rock, you get spruce forest, terraced barley fields, waterfalls pouring off cliffs and the Niyang River running emerald between snow peaks. Tibetans call it the 'Swiss of Tibet' and the 'Jiangnan of the plateau' — both are flattering but not wrong. Average elevation is 3,100 m, low enough that most travellers breathe easier here than in Lhasa.
The drama comes from three mountain ranges meeting: the Himalayas and Nyainqentanglha running east–west, colliding with the Hengduan range in the east. The result is a landscape of gorges and cloud-forest, with Namcha Barwa (7,782 m) — the 15th-highest peak on Earth — standing guard over the Great Bend of the Yarlung Tsangpo. The canyon below is the deepest on the planet, and large parts of it still have no trails.
Base yourself in Bayi Town (八一镇), the modern administrative hub on the Niyang River. It has the hotels, hospitals, banks and bus connections you'll need. From there everything worth seeing — Basum Lake, Lulang, the canyon, Gala Village — is a day trip on the 318 highway, which is itself one of the great road journeys in Asia.