City guide · Jiangsu

Changzhou travel guide: the pagoda, the dinosaurs, free parks, and a day south to Tianmu Lake

A 2,500-year-old canal city that built a dinosaur park and refuses to apologise for it.

  • Known forDinosaur Park, Tianning pagoda, Yancheng, free parks, combs
  • Typical spend¥800 / person / 2–3 days
  • Ideal length2–3 days
  • PaceComfortable — one area a day

Reviewed by our Beijing team Updated 2026-10-10

The short version

Changzhou is the 2,500-year-old city on the Shanghai–Nanjing corridor that built China's best dinosaur park beside a Tang temple with the tallest pagoda in the country, and two to three days is the right stay at about ¥800 a head. Tianning Temple costs ¥20 and ¥60 more to ride up the 153.79 m pagoda; China Dinosaur Park is ¥200; and Hongmei Park, Qingfeng Park, Dongpo Park and the old comb-makers' street of Biji Lane are free. Come in spring or autumn, use the ¥1 buses and the two BRT lines, and spend one of your days going south to Liyang for Tianmu Lake and the bamboo sea.

  • Pay the extra ¥60 for the pagoda. At 153.79 m and thirteen storeys it is the tallest in China, the lift does most of the work, and the view from the top is the whole city.
  • Half of what is worth doing here costs nothing: Hongmei Park, Qingfeng Park, Dongpo Park and Biji Lane are all free, all day, and all on a ¥1 bus.
  • Decide about the ¥200 dinosaur park before you go. The fossil hall is a serious museum, but a large share of that ticket is riding the Fire-Dragon Drill.
  • Yancheng is the reason historians come — the most complete surviving Spring and Autumn city site in China, three walls and three moats, 2,500 years old, and the ruins half costs ¥20.
  • Buses are ¥1 air-conditioned, ¥0.60 with a card, and Changzhou runs the first BRT in Jiangsu — two lines that cross the whole city quickly and cheaply.

City guide

First impressions

Photographs from the coast, and what other travellers wrote afterwards.

The 153.79-metre Tianning pagoda at night
The 153.79-metre Tianning pagoda at night
Dinosaur fossils in the hall at China Dinosaur Park
Dinosaur fossils in the hall at China Dinosaur Park
The three walls and three moats of Yancheng
The three walls and three moats of Yancheng
Bamboo and a cable car at the Nanshan Bamboo Sea
Bamboo and a cable car at the Nanshan Bamboo Sea

Here you can spend one yuan, take the person you love, and ride the BRT right across the city — hills and water, and all of it in view. You can wear your loosest clothes and slippers and walk freely across the square at dusk. And this thoroughly modern city sits on the shore of Taihu, held in the arms of the Grand Canal.

A traveller's note, 'Jiangnan Little Town — Changzhou, Here I Come'

What I like most about Changzhou is the free parks, large and small. The scale of Hongmei, the quiet of Dongpo, the energy of Qingfeng, the ease of Renmin — these are part of daily life here. Come to Changzhou and just wander into them and feel how pretty the city is.

A traveller's note, 'Changzhou, the Always-Happy Prefecture'

Changzhou is the city in the middle that everyone drives past, and it has stopped minding. It is 2,500 years old, it was called the key town of the three Wu and the famous capital of eight districts, and the Grand Canal runs through the middle of it. In the last twenty years it also built China Dinosaur Park and an animation theme park, and it is quietly pleased with both.

It is known as the city of dragons, and there are two explanations in circulation. One is a myth: six of the dragon king's nine sons ended up guarding Changzhou, so the people built six-coloured dragon boats and raced them on Baiyun Creek at the Dragon Boat Festival, and the place became the city of six dragons. The other is arithmetic: the Qi and Liang dynasties produced fifteen emperors from here, and the dragon stood for the emperor. Qianlong, who toured Jiangnan six times and prayed at Tianning Temple three, wrote the plaque that settled it.

What that leaves is a city of odd pairings, and the pairings are the fun of it. A thousand-year-old monastery with a 153.79-metre pagoda stands next to the biggest free park in town. A 2,500-year-old walled city with three concentric moats sits next to a theme park with a ride called the Crazy Fire-Dragon Drill. Two hours south, in Liyang, there is a lake that supplies the city's best dish and a bamboo sea with a cable car strung over it.

It is also one of the cheapest cities in the delta to be a tourist in. Buses cost ¥1, the parks cost nothing, a bowl of silver-thread noodles costs very little, and the only thing that really adds up is the day trip south to the lake.

Changzhou

Don't leave without

Seven things that are worth rearranging a day for.

  1. Go up the 153.79-metre Tianning pagoda
  2. Spend a morning in the dinosaur fossil hall
  3. Walk a free park the way locals do — Hongmei at dawn
  4. Eat crab-roe soup dumplings at a hundred-year-old shop
  5. Take the day down to Tianmu Lake and the bamboo sea
  6. Buy a Changzhou comb in Biji Lane
  7. See the three walls and three moats at Yancheng

Highlights

Six things that make the trip

The tallest pagoda in China

Tianning pagoda is thirteen storeys and 153.79 m, the biggest of the more than 4,000 pagodas in the country, and it is attached to a working monastery founded in the seventh century. Inside, the Buddhist story is told in Dongyang wood carving, Yangzhou lacquer, Changzhou random-thread embroidery and Hui'an stone carving, in a style borrowed from Tang and Song architecture. Entry to the temple is ¥20; the pagoda is ¥60 more.

Real fossils, then real rides

China Dinosaur Park is not only a thrill park. Its dinosaur hall is the largest single collection of Chinese dinosaur fossils on display anywhere, and the grounds are built as a Mesozoic set — waterfalls, cold rock faces, a dried-up sea, dense jungle, a primeval cave. Then there is the Sky Tower, Fire-and-Water Power, Winged Flight and the Crazy Fire-Dragon Drill.

Three walls, three moats, 2,500 years

The line locals quote is: for Ming and Qing go to Beijing, for Sui and Tang go to Xi'an, for the Spring and Autumn period come to Yancheng. It is the most complete surviving above-ground city site of that period in the country, a national protected site, and the geometry of the three concentric walls and moats is still legible from the ground.

A lake that supplies the best dish

Tianmu Lake is called the pearl of Jiangnan, and it produces the dish Changzhou is proudest of: casserole fish head soup made only with bighead carp raised in the lake and simmered in water from the lake, over a sandy bed with no mud and no muddy taste. The lake, the bamboo sea and the hot springs are its three products.

Free parks, and locals who use them

This is the city's best feature and the one visitors miss. Hongmei Park is the first garden of Changzhou, Qingfeng Park is 45 hectares of city forest with a hundred-metre fountain and a beach, Dongpo Park is a quiet peninsula where Su Dongpo is said to have moored eleven times, and every one of them is free.

Combs made here for 1,500 years

Changzhou made the combs of the palace — the saying is that the palace combs and famous fine-toothed combs of Changzhou are the best under heaven — and Biji Lane was the street where every household made them. The lane is named after them: Qianlong saw the workshops and gave the street its name. It is free, it is on the canal, and the shops still sell them.

Suggested routes

Three ways to spend the days

Two days, the old city

2 days days

Temples, parks and the canal — the version with no theme park in it at all.

  1. Day 1

    Temple, pagoda, park

    Start at Tianning Temple in the morning — the halls are big and so are the bell and the drum, which is why it is called the first monastery of the south-east. Pay the ¥60 for the pagoda; the lift does most of the climb and the top gives you the whole city.

    Walk out of the back into Hongmei Park, which is free: climb Hongmei Pavilion, then the Wenbi pagoda, and do the eight named views if you have the afternoon. Come out of the south gate and Dongpo Park is a short walk, with the Grand Canal running past it.

    Stops: Tianning TempleTianning pagodaHongmei ParkDongpo Park

  2. Day 2

    Yancheng and the comb street

    Take the bus out to Yancheng in Wujin: the Spring and Autumn theme park first if you want the rides, then the ruins park at ¥20 for the actual three walls and three moats. The wild animal park next door is there if you have children and energy.

    Back in town for the evening on Biji Lane by the canal, where the comb shops are, then dinner on Jinling Middle Road or the Shuangguifang food street.

    Stops: YanchengBiji LaneShuangguifang

Two days, the fun version

2 days days

What most visitors come for: dinosaurs in the morning, an animation park in the afternoon, temples in between.

  1. Day 1

    Dinosaur park, then Play Valley

    China Dinosaur Park in the morning — go to the fossil hall first, while the queues for the rides are building, then work through the rides you actually want. Buses 302, 29 and B12 go to the park stop.

    Global Animation Play Valley in the afternoon, out at Taihu Bay in Wujin: nine themed zones including Hero Gate, Taobao Street, Mysterious Island, Moore Manor, Legend World and Holy Mountain. In July and August it stays open until 22:00.

    Stops: China Dinosaur ParkPlay Valley

  2. Day 2

    Temple, parks, canal

    Tianning Temple and the pagoda, Hongmei Park behind it, Dongpo Park after lunch, and Biji Lane on the canal at dusk. Sleep near the railway station or around Nandajie.

    Stops: Tianning TempleHongmei ParkDongpo ParkBiji Lane

Three days, with Liyang

3 days days

The full version: adds the day south to Tianmu Lake and the Nanshan Bamboo Sea.

  1. Day 1

    Temple and parks

    Tianning Temple, the pagoda, Hongmei Park, Dongpo Park and Biji Lane — all in the old city, all walkable or a ¥1 bus apart.

    Stops: Tianning TempleHongmei ParkBiji Lane

  2. Day 2

    The theme parks

    China Dinosaur Park for the day, and Play Valley in the late afternoon if you still have the legs. If you have had enough, spend the evening on Qingfeng Park's 45 hectares instead.

    Stops: China Dinosaur ParkPlay Valley

  3. Day 3

    South to Liyang

    Down to Liyang: Tianmu Lake in the morning for the water and the fish head soup, then the Nanshan Bamboo Sea in the afternoon for the cable car, the mirror lake and the 12.8 m bronze longevity statue. Bring mosquito repellent and a swimsuit — the lake has water activities and the bamboo sea has hot springs.

    Stops: Tianmu LakeNanshan Bamboo Sea

Sights

What to actually go and see

The tallest in China

Tianning Temple and the pagoda

A thousand-year-old monastery east of the old city, facing the Grand Canal with Hongmei Park behind it, and the largest and best-preserved ancient monastery in Changzhou. The four things it is known for being big are the hall, the Buddha, the bell and the drum, hence the title first monastery of the south-east. Qianlong came three times and left a plaque. The pagoda is thirteen storeys and 153.79 m — the tallest of the more than 4,000 pagodas in the country.

Ticket
¥20 for the temple; ¥60 more to go up the pagoda
Hours
8:30–17:00
Buses
B12, 3, 212, 220 to the Tianning Temple stop
Decoration
Dongyang wood carving, Yangzhou lacquer, Changzhou random-thread embroidery, Hui'an stone carving
New Year
The bell-ringing on New Year's Eve draws crowds: bell, chanting, prayers, drums and fireworks

Tip Pay for the pagoda. The temple alone at ¥20 is a bargain, but the pagoda is the thing — and at night the whole tower is lit, which is when it photographs best from the park behind it.

Museum and thrill park

China Dinosaur Park

Called the Jurassic of the east, in the modern leisure district of Changzhou New Area. The grounds are a built environment — splashing waterfalls, cold rock faces, a waterless sea, dense jungle, primeval caves — designed to put you in the Mesozoic. The dinosaur hall is the core and the soul: the largest concentration of Chinese dinosaur fossils on display anywhere. Around it are the Sky Tower, Fire-and-Water Power, Winged Flight and the Crazy Fire-Dragon Drill.

Ticket
¥200 adults, ¥100 children
Hours
9:00–17:00
Buses
302, 29, B12 to the China Dinosaur Park stop
Status
National 5A scenic area, national science-education base, national cultural-industry demonstration base

Tip Do the fossil hall first, before the ride queues form, and check the show board on the way in. If you are travelling without children and do not want the rides, think hard before spending ¥200 — the Dinosaur Valley hot spring resort 500 m from the east gate is an alternative way to spend the day.

2,500 years, three walls

Yancheng

West of central Wujin, and the most complete surviving above-ground city site of the Spring and Autumn period in China — some 2,500 years old and a national protected site. Locals say: for Ming and Qing go to Beijing, for Sui and Tang go to Xi'an, for the Spring and Autumn period come to Yancheng. It has the clear water of the Jiangnan countryside and the geometry of a monument left on the plain.

Tickets
Spring and Autumn Yancheng ruins park ¥20; Yancheng Spring and Autumn theme park ¥160
Hours
9:00–17:00
Buses
B1, B16, B19 to the Lanling Road / Changhong Road stop, or 14 and 80 to Yancheng bus centre
Next door
Yancheng wild animal park

Tip The ¥20 ruins half is the one with the actual 2,500-year-old earthworks, and most people wrongly assume the ¥160 park is the whole thing. Do the ruins, then decide whether you want the rides and the recreated streets.

Free, and the biggest

Hongmei Park

The first garden of Changzhou, north of Tianning Temple and named for the Hongmei Pavilion that stands in it. The pavilion was first built in the Tang and rebuilt in the Guangxu years of the Qing; it is 17 m tall on two storeys, and its mass is unusual for a building of its type. From the late winter into spring the plum comes out and people come to walk and to look at the snow from the upper floor.

Ticket
Free
Hours
All day
Buses
B23, 19 to the Hongmei Park stop
The eight views
Plum at dawn, the bell from the old temple, lotus in the wind on the curved pool, green peaks in reflection, the flower path at Phoenix Bridge, autumn glow on the rose beds, the solitary snow pine, and the writing brush in evening light
Festival
The rose lantern festival runs 15 May–1 June

Tip Come early in the morning, when the park is full of people doing tai chi and walking birds, and treat it as the city's living room rather than a sight. It is directly behind Tianning Temple, so the two are one stop.

Free, and quiet

Dongpo Park (Yizhou Pavilion)

Also called the boat-mooring pavilion, east of the centre, and a Jiangnan garden made of a peninsula with water on three sides plus a half-moon island in the old canal. Su Dongpo is said to have come to Changzhou eleven times and moored his boat here; in the Southern Song someone built the pavilion to remember him, and Qianlong wrote a plaque for it on one of his four visits.

Ticket
Free
Hours
5:30–18:30
Buses
3, 17, 25 to the Children's Hospital / Dongpo Park stop
Nearby
The Grand Canal site is close by, so you can take in both in one go

Tip Small and easy to skip, which is a mistake — it is the quietest of the free parks and the one where the canal actually reads. Do it after Hongmei Park, on the way back into town.

The comb street, free

Biji Lane

West of the old city, right on the canal, on the site of the old Piling post station. Changzhou made combs for 1,500 years — the palace comb and the famous fine comb — and every household on this street made them. Qianlong saw workshops and shops along both sides and gave the lane its name. At night every shop hung a palace lantern and every workshop a work lamp, and the reflection in the canal looked like a golden dragon: the eighth of the eight views of the western suburbs, known as the lamplight of the comb bridge.

Ticket
Free
Hours
All day
Buses
3, 6, 12, 26, 212 to the Huaide Bridge stop
Shopping
The commercial centre of Changzhou clusters around Yanling West Road and Biji Lane

Tip This is where you buy combs rather than in a souvenir shop, and the lane is worth seeing after dark for the canal reflection alone. Combine it with Nandajie, which is a few minutes away.

Two hours south

Tianmu Lake

Eight kilometres south of Liyang, named for the Tianmu range it belongs to, and called the pearl of Jiangnan and a green fairyland. It has three core products — the lake and hills park, the Nanshan Bamboo Sea and the imperial-water hot springs — and it is held up as a model of one-stop leisure. Hills ring the water and the water reflects the hills, and it is the source of the fish head soup.

Where
About 8 km south of Liyang, roughly two hours from Changzhou
Ticket
¥65
Hours
8:00–17:00
Buses
In Liyang town, bus 9 to the Tianmu Lake hotel stop
Beer
The Tianmu Lake beer summer festival runs each September

Tip The lake water is filtered through the green hills and sits on a sandy bed rather than mud, which is why the fish have no muddy taste. Order the fish head soup here, not in the city. Bring a swimsuit for the water activities.

Bamboo and a cable car

Nanshan Bamboo Sea

In the southern hills of Liyang, a place built around resource use, ecological protection and tourism all at once, with no pollution for miles around. Bamboo covers the slopes, clinging to rock in every posture; there are thousand-year-old pines, a mirror lake with rafts on it, streams between the hills and wooden lodges. It also has a 12.8 m bronze statue of the god of longevity, called the number one longevity star in the country.

Where
Liyuan village, Hengjian town, Liyang
Ticket
¥90
Hours
9:00–17:00
Buses
Air-conditioned bus 109 from the main coach station to the Nanshan Bamboo Sea stop
Also here
Nanshan Shoumei tea, grown in the hills and named for its shape

Tip Bring mosquito repellent — the bamboo is full of them — plus long sleeves, a hat and shoes you can walk in. A swimsuit is worth packing; there are hot springs in the bamboo. Do it in the same day as Tianmu Lake.

45 hectares, free

Qingfeng Park

A city forest park built around three themes — ecology, popular science and activity — and the largest free open park in Changzhou at 45 hectares. Its landmark is the Rainbow Land earth structure; the highlights are the hundred-metre fountain and an artificial beach. Planting runs from aquatic to wetland to trees and shrubs, from lawn to flower border to woodland.

Ticket
Free
Hours
All day
Buses
52, B23, You 1 to the Zhonglou district government (Qingfeng Park) stop
Status
National 4A scenic area

Tip Come in the evening when the fountain is running. It is the most active of the free parks — Hongmei is the biggest, Dongpo the quietest, Renmin the most idle, and this one the liveliest.

Animation theme park

Global Animation Play Valley

In the Taihu Bay resort area of Wujin, themed on animation art and game culture, fusing digital entertainment with the technology to make it physical — a fantasy world made real by turning game scenes into built places. Nine zones: Hero Gate, Taobao Street, Mysterious Island, Moore Manor, Legend World, Interstellar Legend, Beast Continent, the Play-Tribe Harbour and Holy Mountain.

Ticket
¥180
Hours
9:00–17:30 from September to June; 9:00–22:00 in July and August
Buses
73 to the Taihu Bay Play Valley stop

Tip If you are doing both this and the dinosaur park in one day, do the dinosaurs in the morning and come here for the late afternoon — in July and August it is open until 22:00, which makes it the better evening option.

Food

Dumplings, noodles and a famous fish head

Crab-roe soup dumplings

Said to have been created at the Wan Hua teahouse south of Fuqiao on Xiaoheyan in the Daoguang years. The crab oil is golden and glossy, rich without being cloying, the crab smell hits you before the basket does, the soup is sweet, the skin is thin but holds, and the filling is tender and slippery. Eat them with vinegar and shredded ginger.

Tianmu Lake fish head soup

Created in Liyang and refined by the cook Zhu Shuncai over nearly thirty years, now rated one of Jiangsu's best traditional dishes. It only works with bighead carp raised in the lake and water from the lake: the surrounding green hills filter the water and the bed is sand rather than mud, so the fish have no earthy taste at all.

Changzhou big sesame cake

An oval baked cake with a texture and flavour of its own, savoury or sweet, and the everyday food the city likes most. It comes out of the oven smelling strong, the colour yellow and moist rather than burnt, the sweetness and salt in balance, crisp but not brittle — and it is traditionally a breakfast.

Silver-thread noodles

A Changzhou speciality with thirty-odd years behind it, fussy about ingredients and strict about method: the noodles are fine as thread, white as silver, soft and slippery with real bite, and they do not go mushy in the pot. It is in the official catalogue of Chinese snacks.

Yilong vegetarian ham

Made since 1932 by a vegetarian house in Changzhou, and made from nothing animal at all. Fragrant, dry, chewy but soft, and savoury — slice it thin, drizzle sesame oil, and it looks like ham. Good with drinks and good as a cold plate.

Horseshoe pastry

A pastry shaped like a horse's hoof, said to have appeared among the people after the Taiping army took Changzhou in 1860 to celebrate their victory. Made with fine white flour, white sugar and bean oil, baked in a traditional oven: golden, sweet, crisp and light. Now listed in the catalogue of famous Chinese dim sum.

Crab-shell yellow

Named because the round yellow pastry looks like a crab shell. Made with a flaky and a fermented dough, rolled into small flat cakes, coated in sesame and stuck to the wall of the oven. Crisp outside, and the filling comes savoury — spring onion, pork, crab, shrimp — or sweet: sugar, rose, red bean, date.

The named banquet dishes

Changzhou's canonical dishes include the evergreen thousand-ball, casserole fish head, chicken-brain tofu, pearl aspic, pepper-leaf chicken feet, sesame fish steak, the flower-and-fruit cup, and Changzhou braised pork in wine lees. If you are eating with a group, order several and let the table argue.

Where to eat

Five kitchens worth the detour

The hundred-year-old dumpling house

Yinggui Steamed Bun Shop (Bo'ai Road)

A hundred years old, one of the city's ten famous old eating houses, and the home of the crab-roe soup dumpling — a household name that has won provincial and ministerial awards and was listed among China's ten famous dim sum in 1990.

Where
129 Bo'ai Road, Tianning district
Average spend
About ¥19 / person
Phone
0519-88110241
Order
Crab-roe soup dumplings

Old snacks, local prices

Changzhou Rice Cake Shop

An old-name snack shop doing soup dumplings, tofu soup, mixed noodles and taro in syrup — all straightforwardly Jiangnan in flavour and all cheap. It is busy at every meal and the service is not the reason you go.

Where
13–19 Guanbao Lane, Tianning district
Average spend
About ¥19 / person
Phone
0519-86605394
Order
Soup dumplings, tofu soup, mixed noodles, sugar taro

For a proper banquet

Changxinglou Restaurant (New Area)

Another hundred-year-old house, described locally as the top name card of Changzhou and not exaggerating much: a spacious, quiet Jiangnan-style dining room, large private rooms, mainly Jiangsu and Zhejiang cooking with credible Sichuan and Cantonese. Expensive, and the right place if you are hosting.

Where
388 Jinling North Road, Xinbei district
Average spend
About ¥138 / person
Phone
0519-85159999
Best for
A business or family banquet

Fifty stalls, one card

Shuangguifang food street

A recently built street of more than fifty snack shops, everything around ¥10–20 a dish. You buy a card at the top-up point first and spend it at any shop on the street, which saves a lot of small change.

Buses
210, 219 to the Renmin Park stop
How it works
Buy and top up a card at the sales point, then spend it at any stall
Best for
Cheap grazing, and settling arguments

The restaurant street

Jinling Middle Road

The street locals name when asked where to eat properly. Big houses in a row — Fuji, Ruby, Loushanglou, Zhang Shengji, Sanpinyuan among them — cooking Huaiyang, Hangzhou, Cantonese and Sichuan, with good rooms and good service, and known locally as the Chinese-restaurant street.

Buses
210 to the Jinling Middle Road stop
Cuisines
Huaiyang, Hangzhou, Cantonese, Sichuan
Best for
A sit-down dinner with several dishes

Where to stay

Five beds, from ¥140 a night

The practical base

Around the railway station's north square

The pick for most visitors: transport everywhere, easy reach of the sights, and not far from the busy shopping district. Everything from chain rooms to full-service hotels, and the north square serves the intercity high-speed line.

Where
Heping North Road, Tianning district, by the station
Price
Chains from about ¥140
Best for
Trains, buses, the old city

Budget, 100 metres from the gate

Home Inn (railway station north square)

About 100 m from the north square entrance and 200 m from the coach station exit, next to Hongmei Park and Tianning Temple, with shops, supermarkets, restaurants, banks and entertainment all around it.

Where
276 Heping North Road, Zhongshan Building, Tianning district
Price
From ¥140
Phone
0519-89890788

Closest to the dinosaurs

Super 8 (Wanda Plaza)

In the Wanda Plaza commercial centre of Xinbei, next to China Dinosaur Park and close to the municipal government, the city square, the exhibition centre, the grand theatre and the railway station, with direct access to the Shanghai–Nanjing expressway.

Where
Building 7, Taihu Mingzhu Garden, Taihu Middle Road, Xinbei district
Price
From ¥168
Phone
0519-89880888
Best for
An early start at the dinosaur park

A garden hotel with a Ming garden in it

Changzhou Hotel

A three-star garden hotel in the centre, quiet despite being central, with the three-hundred-year-old Jiangnan garden Jinyuan standing inside the grounds. It has hosted senior national leaders, which tells you what kind of house it is, and the garden alone is worth the room.

Where
7 Changsheng Lane
Price
From ¥186
Phone
0519-86188888
Note
The Ming-Qing garden Jinyuan is on the premises

If you want the top end

Dinosaur Valley Hot Spring Resort

The only hotel in Changzhou with a private in-room hot spring pool looking out at sky, stone bank, water and planting, with 24-hour butler service. It sits inside the same Universal Dinosaur City resort as the park, 500 m from the east gate, and the resort shuttle runs to the park, the theatre and the three-rivers-three-parks area.

Where
270 Yanling Middle Road, Tianning district
Price
From ¥670
Phone
0519-88109988
Best for
Hot springs and the dinosaur park in one place

Getting around

How to reach Changzhou and move through it

By air

Changzhou Benniu International (CZX) is in Benniu town in Xinbei district, 3 km from the Shanghai–Nanjing expressway and 18 km from the city, with routes to Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Shenyang, Harbin, Chongqing, Kunming and Dalian — the Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Shenyang and Harbin flights run daily or several times daily.

Airport
Changzhou Benniu International (CZX), 18 km from the centre
Bus
No. 32 to the airport
Airport bus
¥10, from the Civil Aviation Building ticket office
From Nanjing
Direct car at 09:00 from Nanjing's Civil Aviation Building; from Wuxi at 08:45 and 09:15
Phone
0519-3266000 (switchboard), 0519-8100463 (service)

By train

Changzhou station on Guanhe West Road is a special-class passenger and freight station directly under the Shanghai railway bureau, and because it sits at the boundary of the Shanghai–Nanjing section almost every train stops here. It has two squares: the south square serves the old Beijing–Shanghai line and the north square the Shanghai–Nanjing intercity high-speed line. Changzhou North is an elevated station about 8 km from the centre.

Changzhou station
Guanhe West Road, Tianning district — south square classic, north square high-speed
Phone
0519-85015688
Changzhou North
About 8 km from the centre; BRT B1, B19, B10 and buses 26, 44, 44A and night 13
Buses to the station
1, 11, 12, 14 to the railway station; 1, 18, 20, 21, 28, 30 to the station bus centre

By coach

The road network is good — the Shanghai–Nanjing expressway and national highway 312 both pass the city — and fast coaches leave for Shanghai, Suzhou, Nanjing, Zhenjiang, Danyang and Hefei every 30 to 50 minutes. The main terminal at 18 Xinfeng Street, next to the railway station, handles most of the long-distance departures, with more than 1,000 departures a day.

Main terminal
18 Xinfeng Street, beside the railway station
Phone
0519-88175312
Frequency
Every 30–50 minutes to Shanghai, Suzhou, Nanjing, Zhenjiang, Danyang, Hefei
Other stations
Wujin, Qingliang and Huayuan coach stations

By bus and BRT

Cheap and good: ¥1 on an air-conditioned bus, ¥0.60 with a card, ¥0.30 for students, and free for the over-seventies and for disabled passengers. Changzhou also runs the first BRT in Jiangsu and only the third in China after Beijing and Hangzhou. Line 1 runs from Changzhou North to Wujin bus centre over about 29.8 km, and line 2 from the No.1 bus company to Qishuyan bus centre over about 21.5 km.

Fare
¥1 air-conditioned; ¥0.60 on a card; ¥0.30 students
BRT 1
Changzhou North to Wujin bus centre, about 29.8 km
BRT 2
No.1 bus company to Qishuyan bus centre, about 21.5 km
Useful routes
B12, 3, 212, 220 to Tianning Temple; 302, 29, B12 to the dinosaur park; B1, B16, B19 to Yancheng

By taxi

Flagfall ¥9 for 3 km, then ¥1.8 a kilometre plus ¥1 fuel; after 6 km the rate goes to ¥2.7 a kilometre, and from 11pm to 5am the flagfall is ¥12 with a 30% night surcharge on top. There are only about 2,500 taxis in the entire city, and the 96196 booking line has a poor answer rate — plan around that.

Flagfall
¥9 / 3 km, then ¥1.8 per km plus ¥1 fuel
Beyond 6 km
¥2.7 per km
Night
¥12 flagfall from 23:00 to 05:00, plus 30%
Watch out
Only about 2,500 taxis in the city; the 96196 line often goes unanswered

Getting to Liyang

Tianmu Lake and the Nanshan Bamboo Sea are in Liyang, roughly two hours south. Air-conditioned bus 109 runs from the main coach station straight to the Nanshan Bamboo Sea stop; once you are in Liyang town, bus 9 goes to the Tianmu Lake hotel stop. It is a long day and worth making an early start of it.

To the Bamboo Sea
Air-conditioned bus 109 from the main coach station
To the lake
In Liyang, bus 9 to the Tianmu Lake hotel stop
Allow
A full day for both

Shopping

What to carry home

Changzhou combs

Made here since the Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties — 1,500 years. Once tribute for the palace, now an everyday object and a collector's item, exported abroad. Good materials, worked by carving, painting and hot-etching, and both pretty and genuinely usable. Buy them in Biji Lane, where they were made.

Nanshan chestnuts

The Liyang chestnut is properly called the pearl chestnut: thin shell, big kernel, glossy red-brown, sweet. The best are the new tender ones before the Mid-Autumn festival — pale yellow skin, crisp raw, and cooked with something they go soft and fragrant like osmanthus, which is why they are also called osmanthus chestnuts.

Nanshan Shoumei tea

Grown at Hengjian in Liyang, where the hills roll, the cloud sits low, the climate is mild and the soil damp. Because the plantation lies inside the bamboo sea scenic area, and because the leaf looks like the eyebrow of the god of longevity, it is called Shoumei — longevity eyebrow. Flat and slightly curved, green with white down, a clean lasting aroma and a fresh mellow taste.

Changzhou dried radish

One of the city's best-known local products, and the snack that turns up on every list of what Changzhou tastes like. Cheap, keeps indefinitely, and travels better than almost anything else on this page.

Random-thread embroidery

Worked in crossing lines of uneven length with colour laid in layers, which is why it suits oil paintings, photographs and drawings better than any other Chinese stitch. Bold needlework, flowing lines, rich colour and strong depth. Look for it alongside the combs rather than in a department store.

Bamboo-skin carving

The other Changzhou craft: carving into the surface of the bamboo skin itself, a technique with a long local pedigree. Small pieces, high skill, and the sort of thing that looks better the closer you hold it.

Liyang wind-dried goose and white celery

Two Liyang specialities that travel: the wind-dried goose, cured and hung, and the white celery, pale and crisp. Both are on the standard lists of what to bring back from the south of the municipality.

Where to shop

The commercial centre clusters on Yanling West Road and Biji Lane. Nandajie is the old busy quarter, with Taifu and New Century department stores, the Renmin Park leisure area and the city government around it; the Jiangnan department store is at 101 Nandajie. Yanghu Plaza, at the north end of Huayuan Street in Wujin, is a modern culture-and-shopping block with a musical fountain. For a one-stop sweep of local produce, the Changzhou Sanrong speciality centre on Jinling Middle Road has the full range at fair prices.

Practical

The numbers you will actually need

Only about 2,500 taxis serve the whole city, so build your day around buses and the two BRT lines rather than around hailing cabs.

Best monthsSpring and autumn, when the temperature is reasonable. The city flower is the rose and the city tree the southern magnolia, both summer-flowering, so a summer trip has its own reward; summer highs often pass 36°C and winter is damp and cold
Key ticketsTianning Temple ¥20 plus ¥60 for the pagoda; China Dinosaur Park ¥200 (children ¥100); Play Valley ¥180; Yancheng ruins ¥20 / theme park ¥160; Tianmu Lake ¥65; Nanshan Bamboo Sea ¥90
FreeHongmei Park, Qingfeng Park, Dongpo Park (5:30–18:30), Biji Lane — all day, all free
Festival calendarRose lantern festival at Hongmei Park 15 May–1 June; Liyang tea festival in April; the Changzhou tourism festival September–October; Tianmu Lake beer summer in September; the Tianning Temple fair on the 28th and 29th of the seventh lunar month; New Year bell-ringing at Tianning on 31 December
For the bamboo and the lakeMosquito repellent — the bamboo is full of them; a swimsuit, for the lake water activities and the hot springs in the bamboo; long sleeves and a hat for sun and for the evening chill; and shoes you can actually walk in
Getting aroundBus ¥1 air-conditioned, ¥0.60 on a card; taxi ¥9 for 3 km then ¥1.8 per km plus ¥1 fuel, ¥2.7 beyond 6 km, ¥12 flagfall plus 30% at night; airport bus ¥10; BRT lines 1 and 2
Useful numbersTourism bureau 0519-8163333; airport 0519-3266000 / 0519-8100463; railway station 0519-85015688; Changzhou North 0519-88112054; coach terminal 0519-88175312; taxi booking 96196
HospitalsChangzhou No.1 People's Hospital (Third Affiliated Hospital of Soochow University), 185 Juqian Street, 0519-6180000; Changzhou Hospital of TCM, 25 Heping North Road main and 231 Heping Middle Road south, 0519-89896990 / 0519-88124955
Postcode213000; Changzhou post office, 99 Nandajie, 0519-86632011

Tips

Small things that make a big difference

Group your days by direction

The temple and Hongmei Park are together in the east, the dinosaur park is north in Xinbei, Yancheng is south-west in Wujin, and the lake and bamboo are two hours away in Liyang. Doing them in any other order costs you an hour per day on buses.

Pay the ¥60 for the pagoda

The temple at ¥20 is cheap and worth it, but the pagoda is the point — 153.79 m, thirteen storeys, the tallest in the country, with a lift for most of the climb. Come back after dark to see it lit from Hongmei Park behind it.

Do the ¥20 Yancheng ruins, not just the theme park

The ¥160 Spring and Autumn park is rides and reconstructions. The ¥20 ruins park next to it is the actual 2,500-year-old site — three walls, three moats, a national protected monument. Most visitors only see the expensive half.

Go to the dinosaur hall first

The fossil hall is the most serious part of the park and the emptiest early. Do it before the ride queues build, check the performance board on the way in, and decide honestly how many rides you want before paying ¥200.

Pack for the bamboo

Mosquito repellent is not optional in the bamboo sea, and long sleeves plus a hat do double duty against sun and evening chill. A swimsuit is worth carrying — there are hot springs up there and water activities at the lake.

Use the free parks the way locals do

Hongmei is the big one, Dongpo the quiet one, Qingfeng the lively one, Renmin the idle one — and they are all free. An hour in one of them at dawn tells you more about Changzhou than a day in a theme park.

Background

Why Changzhou is the way it is

A city on the canal, crossed by a meridian

Changzhou sits in the south of Jiangsu, taking the Yangtze to the north and Taihu to the south, with the East China Sea to the east and Shanghai, Nanjing and Hangzhou all roughly equidistant. It is in the middle of the Yangtze delta and forms the Su-Xi-Chang metropolitan belt with Suzhou and Wuxi. It was established as a city in 1949 and now administers the two county-level cities of Jintan and Liyang and the five districts of Wujin, Xinbei, Tianning, Zhonglou and Qishuyan, over 4,385 square kilometres with about 4.5 million residents.

It is also the only sizeable Chinese city whose urban area is crossed by the 120th meridian east, and the city has made that fact into its eastern landscape axis — you will see it marked. The climate is northern subtropical and maritime: mild, wet, four distinct seasons, plum rain in late spring and early summer, hot wet summers that regularly pass 36°C, and damp, cold winters.

Two thousand five hundred years, from a man who kept his word

The city's history begins 2,500 years ago with Ji Zha, enfeoffed at Yanling, who was known among the states for good diplomacy, a command of ritual and music, and keeping his promises — the sort of reputation that gets a place named after you. In the Ming there was the educator Xie Yingfang, of whom it was said that the scholars of Wu competed to be his students and his virtue weighed heavy south of the Yangtze, and the writer and anti-pirate hero Tang Jingchuan. Under the Qing came the Yanghu school of prose led by Yun Jing, the Changzhou school of poetry led by Zhang Huiyan, the Changzhou school of painting led by Yun Nantian, and the Menghe school of medicine.

Modern Changzhou produced the reformist statesman Sheng Xuanhuai, the patriotic industrialist Liu Guojun and the painter Liu Haisu, and in scholarship Zhao Yuanren, Wu Zhihui and Wu Dingliang in the Republic, followed by more than fifty academicians of the Chinese Academy of Sciences and the Academy of Engineering, Hua Luogeng among them.

It is also a revolutionary city: Qu Qiubai, Zhang Tailei and Yun Daiying, all early leaders of the Chinese Communist Party, came from here, as did Li Gongpu and Shi Liang of the seven patriots. There is a memorial area for the three of Changzhou — the memorial hall plus the former homes of Qu Qiubai and Zhang Tailei and the Yun Daiying memorial square — and it is on the third national list of patriotic education bases. At Shuixi village in Liyang was the New Fourth Army's Jiangnan command, where Chen Yi and Su Yu fought.

Opera, tea and the leisure habits of a canal town

Changzhou sits on the old Wu-Yue border, in a land of fish and rice that grows good tea and supports good opera, and for a long time the three things old Changzhou liked best were drinking tea, watching opera and listening to story-telling. People went to the theatres and story houses for kunqu, for spoken storytelling and for Suzhou ballad-singing: on stage the Wu dialect sang of knitted brows and longing, of iron horses and partings; in the audience there were pots of strong tea bitter-then-sweet, dishes of crisp broad beans, and applause that filled the house.

The city's leisure has since diversified — KTV, bars, teahouses and cafés on every street, the Olympic sports centre and the grand theatre adding to it — and people now put more into their health and into getting out of town, so hiking and exercise at the weekends have become ordinary. But the teahouses survived, and so did the habit of sitting a long time over one pot.

The festival year follows the old calendar as much as the new: the Tianning Temple fair on the 28th and 29th of the seventh lunar month, which in Ming and Qing times had grown into a market known far beyond the city; the New Year bell-ringing that Qianlong's temple still does; the rose lantern festival in late spring; and the Liyang tea festival in April and the Tianmu Lake beer summer in September, both of which are attached to things the countryside around the city actually produces.

Travel with them

Changzhou on screen, on paper and on a record

Film

Jurassic Park (1993)

Directed by Steven Spielberg, from Michael Crichton's 1990 novel

The film that brought the kings of the old earth back to life, with effects that still hold. Watch it before you go to China Dinosaur Park — the park's whole design, from the waterfalls to the waterless sea to the primeval cave, is an attempt to build this film's atmosphere on the ground, and it makes much more sense once you have seen it.

Book

Meeting Changzhou for the First Time

Alina Thomas

Every Chinese city has an interesting story, and Changzhou is no exception. The book follows the author's travels here and her conversations with everyone she met — young and old, Chinese and foreign — and fills in the historical background as it goes. Carry it with you and see which Changzhou story you get.

Music

A Southern City at the End of Spring

Li Zhi

By the independent musician Li Zhi, who was born in Changzhou, from his second album Van Gogh. It is about moving from one southern city to another on a rainy day, and the mood is exactly right for walking one of the free parks in spring drizzle.

The questions visitors ask us most about Changzhou, answered plainly.

Frequently asked questions

Prices and practical details are reviewed every month by our Beijing team and updated the day a rule changes.

How many days do I need in Changzhou?

Two to three. Two days splits into the old city — temple, pagoda, Hongmei Park, the canal and Biji Lane — and the theme parks north of the centre. Three days adds the day trip south to Liyang for Tianmu Lake and the Nanshan Bamboo Sea, which is a long day and the best scenery in the municipality.

Is the ¥200 China Dinosaur Park ticket worth it?

It depends on what you want from it. The dinosaur hall is a genuine museum with the largest concentration of Chinese dinosaur fossils on display anywhere, and that part is worth a lot. But the ticket also covers the thrill rides, and if you are not going on them you are paying for things you will not use. Families with children rarely regret it; adults travelling alone often do.

What is free to do in Changzhou?

Quite a lot: Hongmei Park with its thousand-year-old pavilion and eight named views, Qingfeng Park with 45 hectares of city forest and a hundred-metre fountain, Dongpo Park on its riverside peninsula, and Biji Lane, the old comb-making street on the canal. All four are free, open all day and reachable on a ¥1 bus.

How do I get to Tianmu Lake and the Nanshan Bamboo Sea?

They are in Liyang, roughly two hours south of Changzhou, and they are normally done as one long day. Bus 109 from the main coach station goes to the Nanshan Bamboo Sea, and in Liyang town bus 9 runs to the Tianmu Lake hotel stop. Bring mosquito repellent for the bamboo, a swimsuit for the lake and the hot springs, and shoes you can walk in.

What should I eat in Changzhou?

Crab-roe soup dumplings first — golden crab oil, thin skin, plenty of soup, eaten with vinegar and ginger. Then the big sesame cake, sweet or savoury; silver-thread noodles, fine as thread and white as silver; Yancheng vegetarian ham, made since 1932; and the Tianmu Lake fish head soup, which is only made with bighead carp raised in the lake and water from the lake.

When is the best time to visit Changzhou?

Spring and autumn, which is when the temperature is reasonable and the flowers are out. The city flower is the rose and the city tree is the southern magnolia, both of which bloom in summer, so a summer trip has its own reward. The rose lantern festival runs 15 May to 1 June in Hongmei Park, and the Changzhou tourism festival runs September to October.

How do I get around without a car?

Buses, easily. The fare is ¥1 on an air-conditioned bus, ¥0.60 with a card, and there are two BRT lines that cross the city fast — Changzhou built the first one in Jiangsu. Taxis start at ¥9 for 3 km but there are only about 2,500 in the whole city and the booking line is unreliable, so do not build a schedule around hailing one.

Is Changzhou good for a canal-and-garden trip with Suzhou and Wuxi?

Yes, and it is the cheap one of the three. Wuxi is about 20 minutes east by train and Suzhou is barely further, so you can sleep in Changzhou and day-trip both ways. What you get here that they do not have is the dinosaur museum, the tallest pagoda in China and a set of large free parks — plus noticeably lower hotel prices.

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  • Pay the extra ¥60 for the pagoda. At 153.79 m and thirteen storeys it is the tallest in China, the lift does most of the work, and the view from the top is the whole city.
  • Half of what is worth doing here costs nothing: Hongmei Park, Qingfeng Park, Dongpo Park and Biji Lane are all free, all day, and all on a ¥1 bus.
  • Decide about the ¥200 dinosaur park before you go. The fossil hall is a serious museum, but a large share of that ticket is riding the Fire-Dragon Drill.

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