What Zhejiang cooking is
One of the eight great cuisines of China, and the four things its cooks agree on: be particular about the raw material, cook it with a distinctive hand, keep the original flavour, and make it carefully. The four schools are Hangzhou, Ningbo, Shaoxing and Wenzhou, and each tastes quite different from the others.
Hangzhou: clean and delicate
The signature is qing shuang bie zhi — clean, cool, deliberate. Ingredients are seasonal, the work is fine, the range is wide, salt and freshness are married rather than fought, and the result is light. Dongpo pork, West Lake vinegar fish, West Lake beef soup and West Lake water-shield soup are the four to order.
Ningbo: salt and sea
The Ningbo kitchen is about seafood, cooked by steaming, roasting and slow-braising so that fresh and salted meet. Tofu skin wrapped round yellow croaker, seaweed cubes, bamboo with salted greens — cheap and excellent — plus the 'stinky trio', the glutinous rice balls, the red-roe crab and Xikou flaky pastry.
Shaoxing: salt, not sugar
Shaoxing food is the savoury end of Jiangnan — salty, certainly not sweet. The kitchen works in freshwater fish and shellfish, poultry and beans, and wants things fragrant, crisp, soft and glutinous, in their own stock, light on oil and without chilli. Braised pork with dried mustard greens, drunken chicken, fennel beans, cream xiaopan and stinky tofu, and the yellow wine.
Wenzhou: the Ou kitchen
Light oil, light starch, heavy knife work, and seafood above all. The three masterpieces are three-shred beaten fish, quick-fried cuttlefish and brocade fish shreds. Then the snacks: fish cake, fish balls, beaten-fish soup, duck tongues, lamp-bowl cakes, pig-offal noodles, Changren wontons and Airen rice cakes.
Jinhua: ham and pastry
Jinhua cooking works by braising, steaming, stewing, simmering and frying, and it is famous for two things above all — the ham and the flaky pastry. Add the bergamot, Dongyang noodles, Jinhua soup dumplings, Lanxi egg pancakes, Pujiang wheat cakes, Pan'an pulled noodles and bayberry spirits.
Ten Zhejiang snacks
Wushan shortbread, Jinhua dried-greens pastry, horseshoe pastry, Pujiang wheat cakes, crab-roe soup dumplings, shrimp-roe noodles, Shaoxing stinky tofu, Zhoushan seafood noodles, bangbang chicken, and Jinhua ham and chestnut zongzi.
The old houses
Zhejiang's famous snack houses: Hangzhou's Zhiweiguan; Huzhou's Ding Lianfang and Zhu Laoda; Jiaxing's Wufangzhai; and Kuanyuan House, a century old and still doing Ningbo noodles.