Walking the Jade Corridor between the tall bamboo, red sandstone underfoot like a carpet, pine wind in the ears and the smell of bamboo leaves in the air, you feel you have stepped outside the world. Keep climbing, and look for the strange human-faced bamboo.
A traveller's note, Breathing in the Jade Corridor
When you take up the pole and let the raft drift out onto the Sea-Within-the-Sea, every bit of noise in the world goes off with the water. Even a bellyful of worry turns into something like pleasure.
A traveller's note, Poling a Raft on the Sea-Within-the-Sea
There is a place where, when the wind gets up, green waves heave against the sky and the whole hillside roars, and when it drops, everything goes still, soft and far away. On a clear day the light flashes off the leaves and the green sea glitters gold; in the rain the cloud wraps the hills, the bamboo shadows sway, and the view turns into ink. That is not a brochure line, it is a fair description of the Shunan Bamboo Sea — the bamboo sea of southern Sichuan.
It sits in Yibin, on the border of Changning and Jiang'an counties, and it is enormous: more than 70,000 mu of nann bamboo pouring over 28 hills and 500-odd knolls, 58 species in total, 87% plant cover, and the densest concentration of negative air ions anybody in China has bothered to measure. Eight main scenic areas, two preamble areas, 134 sights. Deng Xiaoping's successor as premier, Li Peng, came here and wrote four characters that the park has never stopped repeating: the Shunan Bamboo Sea is the greenest under heaven.
The park is strung together by a handful of set pieces. The Jade Corridor is the signature: a road paved in red sandstone arched over by bamboo leaning so far inward that the light comes down in slivers. The Sea-View Tower, reached by one of China's longest cable cars, gives you the whole rolling green at once. And in the cliffs behind, Xianyu Cave holds Ming-dynasty carvings inside a natural rock cavity, while the Tianbao Stockade runs 1,500 m of Qing-dynasty fortress along a cliff face.
Between those, the park asks you to do very little: pole a raft across a lake, walk the Forget-Your-Worries valley in the evening, stand in the spray at the Seven-Colour Falls, and eat. The food is half the reason to come — a whole-bamboo banquet that runs from winter shoots through bamboo fungus to something called bamboo bird's nest, and outside the park, the noodles Yibin is famous for.