Wind, flowers, snow, moon
The four sights that name Dali: the wind at Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow on Cangshan, the moon over Erhai. You will hear the phrase everywhere — it is the place in four words.
City guide · Yunnan
A walled Bai town between a 4,000 m mountain and a great lake — wind, flowers, snow and moon, and life at a slower speed.
Reviewed by our Beijing team Updated 2026-10-10
The short version
City guide
Photographs from the coast, and what other travellers wrote afterwards.
You can put down your load here, face the mountain and the lake, and watch the light change; at night, the moon and the stars. A little boat, a lakeside table, a bottle of wine — what more is there?
Traveller note — 'Slow Time in Shuanglang'
I do not know why, but I love it more than Lijiang. Dali is quieter and fresher, less crowded and less noisy — and the air and the climate are famously good.
Traveller note — 'Dali in March'
Dali is the softer, quieter cousin of Lijiang: a walled town of cobbled lanes, willow-lined canals and white Bai houses, set between a mountain and a lake. Behind it the Cangshan range climbs to around 4,000 m; in front of it Erhai spreads across 250 km². The old town sits at 1,900 m between the two, warm enough to flower all year, and it feels less like a sight and more like a place people live.
The Chinese phrase for Dali is 'wind, flowers, snow, moon' — the wind that howls through Xiaguan at the lake's southern end, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow that clings to Cangshan even in summer, and the moon reflected in Erhai. It is a romantic shorthand, but it is also accurate: this is a town shaped by its mountain and its water, and the four sights are still the four reasons to come.
What gives Dali its particular character is who lives here. Since the 1990s it has drawn writers, artists and drop-outs from China's big cities, who came to slow down and stayed — running the guesthouses, cafés and stalls along Renmin Road. That gives the town a lived-in, gently bohemian feel that Lijiang traded away years ago.
Beyond the old town, Bai culture is the main event: the tie-dye workshops of Zhoucheng, the grand courtyard houses of Xizhou, the three-course 'three teas' ceremony, and a lake full of fishing boats. Come for the scenery, stay for the pace of life — and take the ring road slowly, which is the whole point.
Dali
Seven things that are worth rearranging a day for.
Highlights
The four sights that name Dali: the wind at Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow on Cangshan, the moon over Erhai. You will hear the phrase everywhere — it is the place in four words.
The best thing in Dali: 120 km of lakeside road linking fishing villages, best ridden by bicycle or e-bike. Stop for lunch in a Bai courtyard, then keep going.
The mountain that shelters the town, threaded by a halfway walking path and served by two cable cars. Go up for the wildflowers, the waterfalls and the view down over the whole lake.
The walled Bai town: South Gate and its drum tower, the grid of stone lanes, Wuhua Tower for the classic rooftop view, and Renmin Road for cafés, crafts and food.
The finest Bai architecture anywhere, north of the lake: 'three rooms and a screen wall' courtyards, carved gates and painted eaves, plus the town's own sweet-and-savoury baba bread.
Zhoucheng is the Bai tie-dye heartland, where indigo cloth is stitched, dipped and dried in the sun. Watch a workshop, then buy a scarf for a fraction of city prices.
Suggested itineraries
Days here are built around the lake and the mountain. Rent a bike or e-bike if you want the lake the good way.
Old town and the northern villages on day one, the mountain and the lake on day two — no rushing.
Start in Dali old town with the South Gate, Wuhua Tower and the lanes off Renmin Road, then take the bus north to Xizhou for its Bai courtyard houses and a fresh Xizhou baba.
Continue to Zhoucheng for the tie-dye workshops and, a short way on, Butterfly Spring. Stay the night in Xizhou or back in the old town.
Stops: Dali old townXizhouZhouchengButterfly Spring
Take a cable car up Cangshan in the morning for the Jade Belt Path and the view over the lake.
Come down and either ride the ring road or take a boat on Erhai, then finish in the old town for dinner and a drink on Renmin Road.
Stops: CangshanErhai LakeOld townRenmin Road
Add Xiaguan, the Three Pagodas and a night by the lake at Shuanglang.
Begin in Xiaguan, the wind-blown new town, then head to Cangshan — up by cable car or on foot — and stop at Chongsheng Temple and its Three Pagodas on the way back.
End in the old town for the evening.
Stops: XiaguanCangshanThree PagodasOld town
Wander the old town in the morning, then take the bus to Xizhou for architecture, handicrafts and lunch, and stay overnight there or in the old town.
Stops: Old townXizhou
Head to Shuanglang on the north-east shore for the lake at its most beautiful, eat sandpot fish for lunch, and watch the sunset from the water before returning.
Stops: ShuanglangErhai LakeSunset
Sights
Ticket prices in China change without much notice. Treat these as a guide and confirm on arrival.
Lake · The whole reason to come
A 250 km² crescent of clear water between Cangshan and the Dali plain, and the 'moon' of the four sights. Tourist boats run from Longkan, Xiaguan and Taoyuan piers with a Bai song-and-dance show and the 'three teas' on board — pleasant but commercial. The better way is the ring road: rent a bicycle and ride it slowly.
Tip If you dislike packaged tourism, skip the boat show and put the money into a bicycle and a night in a lakeside village — the ride beats the cruise.
Landmark · 1,000 years old
A trio of pagodas — one tall, two small — standing against Cangshan with Erhai in front, the most recognisable image in Yunnan. They date to the Nangzhao and Dali kingdoms and have survived more than a thousand years of earthquakes and history. The temple complex behind them climbs the hillside; the view back over the lake from the top terrace is superb.
Tip Pay for the whole complex, not just the three towers — the climb up through the rebuilt temple to the upper terrace is where the view of Erhai and Cangshan together opens up.
Mountain · Cable cars
The massif that shelters Dali from the west, snow-capped through summer and rising towards 4,000 m. Two cable cars serve it — the larger Gantong cable car south of the old town, and the smaller Cangshan cable car just west of the west gate — linked by the Jade Belt Path that runs along the mountainside past temples such as Gantong and Qingbi Stream.
Tip The classic route is up by the big Gantong cable car, along the Jade Belt Path, and down by the small one. Stay on the marked paths — Cangshan is a real mountain and people have got lost off-trail.
Old town · Walkable
The walled Bai town itself, laid out on a rough grid of stone lanes around the South Gate and its drum tower. Courtyard houses still spill flowers over their walls, and the old canals that once ran through every street are being restored. Renmin Road is the spine — guesthouses, cafés, craft shops and street food — and Wuhua Tower gives the rooftop view.
Tip Rent a bicycle and ride out to the lake — it is about 90 minutes round trip and the fields and villages on the way are half the point.
Village · Bai architecture
A Bai town north of the lake that has the finest surviving courtyard architecture in the region — the 'three rooms and a screen wall' layout, with carved gates, painted eaves and deep stone courtyards. It is a working town rather than a museum, which is exactly its appeal. Its famous baba bread, sweet or savoury, comes hot from the griddle in the market.
Tip Skip the big ticketed performance courtyards if you want the real thing — the ordinary lanes and family homes are more rewarding, and the baba in the market is the best snack in Dali.
Tie-dye · Spring
Zhoucheng is the Bai tie-dye centre, where indigo cloth is still waxed, stitched, dipped and dried in the sun, and where you can tour a dye works and buy cloth directly. Just outside it, Butterfly Spring is a square pool under a great old tree — the setting of the film Five Golden Flowers and a classic Bai spot, though its butterflies now live in the nearby Butterfly World rather than in the wild.
Tip Combine Zhoucheng and Butterfly Spring with Xizhou in one loop north of the lake — they are minutes apart, and it makes a natural half-day.
Lakeside · Sunset
A fishing village on the north-east shore, strung between the hills and the water, and the best place in Dali to watch the sun go down. It has become the smart end of the lake, with boutique guesthouses and views across to Cangshan — quieter and more upmarket than the old town, and worth a night if you want the water and nothing else.
Tip Come for sunset and stay the night — the village empties out after the day-trippers leave, and the morning light on the lake is even better than the evening.
Eating
Yunnan cooking is bright, sour and often spicy, and Dali's Bai kitchen leans on the lake, the fields and the dairy of the surrounding villages.
Yunnan's famous 'cheese sold as a fan': sheets of cow's-milk cheese grilled on a skewer over charcoal, brushed with sauce and rolled, until golden and chewy. Eat it hot, straight off the skewer, for the full experience of milk and smoke.
A flaky baked flatbread from Xizhou, sweet (rose-scented) or savoury (spring onion and minced pork). Crisp outside, soft within, and best bought hot from a market griddle. It is the town's signature snack and travels well as a gift.
The dish Dali is most proud of: cool rice noodles topped with shredded chicken, a peanut-and-sesame dressing, chilli and a sweet-sour sauce. Refreshing and tangy, and the default is slightly sweet — ask for the savoury version if you prefer.
A Bai welcome ritual and a lesson in balance: a first cup of bitter tea, a second of sweet tea with walnut and honey, and a third of 'aftertaste' tea with Sichuan pepper and ginger. Every stage means something; drink all three.
The lake's signature dish: a whole carp cleaned, salted and simmered in a clay pot with tofu, ham, meatballs and bamboo shoots over charcoal. Fresh, faintly sweet and the centrepiece of a Bai banquet.
The ham that made a TV food documentary famous, cured in the mountain town of Nuodeng with local salt and the dry highland air. Served sliced, in stir-fries or with rice — nutty, deep and not as salty as you expect.
Where to eat
Most places cluster on Renmin Road in the old town. Several close by early evening, so eat lunch late and dinner early.
Noodles · Iconic
Dali's most famous cold chicken noodles, and a place locals love as much as visitors. Sour, sweet and spicy all at once, from a tiny shopfront that fills the moment it opens and often shuts by early evening. Big bowl ¥6, small ¥5.
Bai restaurant · Old name
A long-established Bai restaurant with a menu of genuine local dishes — quick-fried snails, papaya chicken, and sandpot fish. The seasoning runs spicy, so tell the kitchen if you want it mild.
Yunnan · Cheap
A small, unfussy old Yunnan restaurant with a handful of tables and generous, well-priced plates. Regulars come for the hot-and-sour fish, the tofu pot and fresh mint dishes. Honest cooking, no theatre.
Snack · A few yuan
A stall with a reputation far bigger than its size, specialising in pea-flour jelly piled with shredded chicken, ground peanut, sesame and a tangy, spicy dressing that clings to every strand. About ¥5 a bowl, and arguably the best jelly in Dali.
Café-restaurant · Bohemian
Warm, sunny and full of books and plants, this is a gathering point for Dali's writers and artists. The ginger chicken is the signature, and the whole place has the slightly literary, lived-in feel that draws people to Dali in the first place.
Sleeping
Old town for walkability, Xiaguan for practicality, lakeside villages for quiet. Book in advance in spring and autumn.
Guesthouse · ¥120–220
A small, charming courtyard guesthouse with bougainvillea at the door, an old tree and a wooden upper floor — only a few rooms, but comfortable and thoughtfully run. It even keeps a sideline in European vintage goods. One of the nicest cheap stays in the old town.
Bai courtyard · From ¥380
The only hotel in the old town built to display the full range of Bai courtyard layouts — 'three rooms and a screen wall', 'four courtyards and five wells' and more, across several yards. Near four-star standard, with a Bai restaurant seating 400 and five private rooms. The courtyard is the point.
Grand · From ¥460
A large hotel on Yu'er Road with Cangshan behind and Erhai in front, built around the 'four courtyards and five wells' layout, its yards named for wind, flowers, snow and moon. There is a swimming pool. Its position means the four sights are almost literally at your window.
Lakeside · From ¥140
A newly built, clean Bai courtyard one minute's walk from the water at Caicun, by the village pier. Quiet and modern compared with the old town's bustle, and the obvious choice if you want the lake at your door rather than a 20-minute ride away.
Hostel · Beds from ¥30
A young, friendly guesthouse with affordable rooms, home cooking and a house grain liquor of its own, run on a share-and-help ethos — self-service, eco-minded and welcoming. If you want company and conversation rather than a quiet room, this is the place.
Getting around
The old town and the new town (Xiaguan) are 13 km apart. Cars cannot enter the old town — arrange to be dropped at the gate.
Dali Huangcaoba Airport (DLU) sits 12 km east of the city, between Fengyi and Haidong, with domestic flights to Kunming (40 min), Xishuangbanna, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Shenzhen. It is small and easy, but there are no daily international flights.
Dali station, in the new town at Weishan Road 261, is a hub of the Yunnan tourist rail line. High-speed trains run to Kunming (about 2 hours) and Lijiang (about 2 hours) — by far the easiest way in and out.
Dali has several bus stations, with the main ones at Weishan Road and Xinglong Road. Buses to and from Kunming are frequent (roughly every 30–60 minutes, ¥105, about 4 hours), and there is good service to Lijiang, Shangri-La, Tengchong and beyond.
Buses 4 and 8 link the old town and Xiaguan for ¥1.5, about 30 minutes (bus 4 runs Gongsi–South Gate–North Gate; bus 8 runs the station–East Gate–West Gate). Taxis within the new town use the meter from ¥5–6; to the old town they usually quote a flat ¥40–50.
Into the old town, get out at the nearest gate and walk — cars and buses cannot drive inside, and drivers will not take you to the door.
Erhai tourist boats leave Xiaguan's north pier and other piers in the morning (from about ¥70–80), best booked a day ahead. On land, a rented bicycle is the real key to Dali: ¥20 a day, and the ring road around the lake is the thing to do.
Shopping
The old town is wall-to-wall shops. The cheap end is the upper stretch of the Foreigners' Street and the alleys off it — same goods, lower prices.
Dali's signature craft: indigo tie-dye and wax-resist batik made with the region's traditional plant dyes, patterned with animals, plants and old court motifs. Shirts and trousers run ¥20–50, larger batik cloth ¥20–120. Buy where you can watch it being made.
The stone that gave the world the word 'marble' comes from here, cut to reveal natural ink-painting patterns. Look for scholar's objects, screens, vases and lamps in the shops of the old town and Xiaguan — small pieces travel well, big ones do not.
A pressed bowl-shaped Yunnan tea, blended from the leaves of dozens of counties and known for its dark, mellow, sweet-aftertaste brew. Light, sturdy and a classic gift; buy cakes or loose leaf from a proper tea shop rather than a souvenir stall.
Rose-petal flower cakes are the edible souvenir — buy them freshly baked and eat them warm. Silver is the other local temptation: much of what is sold on the street is white copper dressed up as silver, so compare shops and check the quality before you pay.
Practical
Area code 0872. English help is not guaranteed — save these before you need them.
| Emergency (police / ambulance / fire) | 110 · 120 · 119 |
|---|---|
| Tourist information / complaints | 0872-2677754 · complaints 0872-2121246 |
| Dali Bai Prefecture People's Hospital | 35 Renmin South Road, Xiaguan · 0872-2125465 |
| Dali No.1 People's Hospital | 19 Jianshe East Road · 0872-2124462 |
| Banks & ATMs | CCB, ICBC and ABC all have branches in the old town; fewer ATMs in the villages |
| Weather note | Notorious wind at Xiaguan; big day–night range — always carry a windproof layer |
| Key festivals | Third Month Fair (April) · Torch Festival (June, lunar 25th) · Raosanling (April) |
| Altitude | Old town 1,900 m — fine for most; Cangshan summit about 4,000 m |
Tips
March and April are the classic months, with flowers everywhere; autumn is clear and dry. Summer brings the rains and a wide day–night range, and winter is dry and windy — pack a windproof jacket if you visit Xiaguan.
The day-to-night difference here can hit 10°C, and summer afternoons turn cool fast when it rains. Light layers, a windproof shell and sunscreen cover almost everything.
The tour boat is convenient but commercial; a rented bicycle or e-bike on the ring road is cheaper, freer and far more memorable. If you hire a bike, always carry water and sun cream.
Some famous 'Bai courtyards' charge for a song-and-dance show not unlike the boat's. If you want the real architecture, walk the ordinary lanes of Xizhou and Zhoucheng instead — it is free and better.
Lots of the 'silver' sold on the street is white copper that will rust. If you are buying real silverware, compare several shops, ask about the grade, and pay for quality rather than a story.
Cangshan is a genuine mountain with changeable weather. Stay on the marked paths and the Jade Belt Path, do not wander into the backcountry, and start early enough to be down before dark.
Background
Dali prefecture sits where the Yunnan–Guizhou Plateau meets the Hengduan Mountains, higher in the north-west and lower in the south-east. Cangshan runs down the middle like a screen, Erhai Lake lies at its foot, and the whole landscape is one of mountains, gorges, lakes and plains — the highest point in the prefecture reaches 4,295 m and the lowest, on the Nu River, drops to 730 m.
The result is a mild, almost spring-like climate with a small annual range but a large daily one — 'cool at its coldest, warm at its warmest', as the local saying goes. There is strong vertical variation: hot in the valleys, mild in the basin, cool on the mid-slopes and cold at altitude, and the wind at Xiaguan, at the lake's southern gap, is famous enough to have earned the town the name 'Wind City'.
Dali is one of the earliest cultural heartlands in Yunnan; Neolithic sites ring Erhai Lake, and its first peoples farmed, fished and herded here thousands of years ago. In the tenth century the Kingdom of Dali rose under Duan Siping, and for centuries the area was a key link on the 'Shu–Shendu road' that ran from Chengdu through Dali and Baoshan into Burma and on to India.
Today Dali is the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, and the Bai are its defining people — a group with their own language and a rich musical and architectural tradition, matrilineal in places and deeply attached to their 'benzhu' local deities. The tie-dye, the courtyards, the three teas and the great spring festivals such as the Third Month Fair and Raosanling are all Bai, and all still very much alive.
Travel with them
Not guides — films, books and music that show Dali the way the people who love it see it.
Dir. Wang Jiayi, 1959
The film that made Dali and its Bai people famous across China. A young woman and a blacksmith meet at the Third Month Fair, fall for each other and arrange to meet again a year later at Butterfly Spring — a song-and-dance romance that turned the town, and the Bai 'golden flowers', into household names.
Wang Guiming
A settler's account of the old town, written with fresh eyes and real affection — the food, the courtyards, the slow ordinary days, and the warmth a stranger finds in a place far from home. A good companion for anyone thinking of staying longer than planned.
Miserable Faith
The album born from the band's own time drifting through Dali's old town, and the song line about rainy Renmin Road has become a small anthem for the town. Dream, friendship, love and warmth, sung by people who actually lived it here.
Traditional
Dali's own sound is the Bai 'diao' melody, sung freely in the fields, and the dabenqu — a sung storytelling form performed with the sanxian and a fan. Catch a live performance if you can; it is the living soundtrack of the villages around the lake.
The questions visitors ask us most about Dali, answered plainly.
Prices and practical details are reviewed every month by our Beijing team and updated the day a rule changes.
Two days is the working minimum: the old town, the Three Pagodas and Cangshan on day one, then Erhai Lake and a lakeside village on day two. Three days is much better — it lets you sleep a night by the lake at Shuanglang, see Xizhou and Zhoucheng, and ride the ring road at a relaxed pace. Many travellers end up staying a week.
It is the traditional four-line summary of Dali's scenery: the wind that blows through Xiaguan, the flowers of Shangguan, the snow that stays on the peaks of Cangshan through summer, and the moon reflected in Erhai Lake. Say it to any local and you have made a friend — it is the shorthand name for the whole place.
Old town for convenience — everything is walkable and the food, nightlife, Three Pagodas and Cangshan cable car are all minutes away. A lakeside village such as Shuanglang or Caicun is quieter and puts the water at your window, but you need a bike, e-bike or car to get around. A good split is one or two nights in each.
They are different trips, and both are worth it. Lijiang is grander and busier, set beneath Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, with a larger Naxi old town and more tourists; Dali is smaller, calmer and less commercialised, and the pairing of Cangshan and Erhai is its own thing. They are 2 hours apart by high-speed rail, so do both if you can.
High-speed rail is now the fastest and easiest. From Kunming it is about 2 hours, from Lijiang about 2, arriving at Dali station in the new town 13 km south of the old town; bus 8 finishes the trip for ¥1.5. Flights from Kunming take about 40 minutes but add airport time at both ends, and buses are slower but frequent.
The classics are milk 'fan' (rubing), a grilled cheese on a stick; Xizhou baba, a flaky baked bread sold sweet or savoury; and Lengji rice noodles, served cool with chicken, peanut sauce and a sweet-sour dressing. Then the Bai 'three teas' — bitter, sweet, then a lingering aftertaste — and the lake's signature sandpot fish.
Very unlikely in the old town, which sits at about 1,900 m — lower than Lijiang and far below the level where most people feel anything. The one spot to mind is Cangshan, whose summit approaches 4,000 m; if you take the cable car up, take it slowly and don't over-exert. Give yourself a day at town altitude first.
Plan this trip
The same places, with a driver, an English-speaking guide and the tickets already bought.
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City guide · 12 tours
A free West Lake, a Taoist mountain and 200 km of white-sand coast — the Pearl River Delta's most underrated weekend.
Beidaihe
City guide · 12 tours
Northern China's classic beach escape — one sunrise headland, 10 km of calm swimming water, and a bird flyway overhead twice a year.
Shanhaiguan
City guide · 12 tours
The town where the Great Wall stops being a rumour of mountains and walks into the Bohai Sea.
Baiyangdian
City guide · 12 tours
The biggest freshwater lake on the North China Plain — and almost none of it can be reached except by boat.
Qinhuangdao
City guide · 12 tours
126 km of Bohai coast in one municipality — a working port, two famous resorts, and the only desert dunes that meet this sea.
Yesanpo
City guide · 12 tours
Gorge country where the Taihang and Yan ranges collide — 52.5 km of canyon walls, a cave that spits fish, and a river to fall off.
Zhuhai
City guide · 12 tours
The delta's slow city: a 28 km promenade, 146 islands, oysters fattened where the river meets the sea.
Wuyi Mountain
City guide · 12 tours
Nine bends of clear water, red sandstone cliffs, and the tea that made a mountain's name.
Jiuzhaigou
City guide · 12 tours
108 mineral-blue lakes in one 55 km valley — the place that ruins water everywhere else for you.
Mount Siguniang
City guide · 12 tours
Four snow peaks, three valleys, and the friendliest 5,000 m mountain in China to stand on top of.
Hailuogou
City guide · 12 tours
A glacier that comes down to 2,850 m, hot springs in the forest, and Gongga Shan filling the sky above both.
Daocheng Yading
City guide · 12 tours
Three 6,000 m sacred peaks, glacial lakes at 4,600 m and twenty hours of road — the hardest, highest payoff in Sichuan.
Shunan Bamboo Sea
City guide · 12 tours
Seventy thousand mu of bamboo over twenty-eight hills, a red sandstone corridor under a closed green roof, and a banquet made entirely of bamboo.
Dujiangyan
City guide · 12 tours
Not a monument but a machine: three pieces of engineering with no dam, still doing their job after 2,270 years.
Qingcheng Mountain
City guide · 12 tours
The mountain where Daoism was organised, and the one Chengdu escapes to when the basin turns into an oven.
Qingdao
City guide · 12 tours
Red-tiled roofs, cold beer and a granite mountain that walks straight into the sea — the easiest good time on the Yellow Sea.
Mount Tai
City guide · 12 tours
1,545 metres, 6,290 stone steps and three thousand years of emperors — the one mountain in China that is also a document.
Jinan
City guide · 12 tours
A provincial capital with 700 springs under the pavement — people still queue at the spouts to fill their kettles.
Weihai
City guide · 12 tours
1,000 km of clean coast, a free bathing beach, the island where the Beiyang Fleet died — and thousands of wild swans every winter.
Qufu
City guide · 12 tours
One family, two thousand years of steles, and a ¥150 pass that covers the lot — the easiest serious day trip in Shandong.
Penglai
City guide · 12 tours
China's immortals' coast — a Song-dynasty naval harbour you can walk for free, a mythology nobody ever found, and the ferry to 32 islands.
Changdao
City guide · 12 tours
32 islands, one causeway, a ¥150 land pass, tens of thousands of gulls and nowhere you can drive — the place where everything happens by boat.
Nanjing
City guide · 12 tours
Capital of six dynasties, capital of the Republic, and the city that eats more duck than anywhere else on earth.
Suzhou
City guide · 12 tours
Two thousand five hundred years of canals, sixty surviving gardens, and a city that shuts its gates at half past five.
Zhouzhuang
City guide · 12 tours
Nine hundred years, fourteen bridges, one ticket — and a town that only makes sense before eight in the morning.
Tongli
City guide · 12 tours
Fifteen canals, seven islets, forty-nine bridges — and a town that still gets up at dawn because it lives here.
Wuxi
City guide · 12 tours
Taihu on one side, a Grand Buddha on the next hill, and ribs sweet enough to argue about — the most underrated city on the Yangtze delta.
Yangzhou
City guide · 12 tours
A city built by salt merchants who had more money than restraint — gardens, a narrow lake, and the best breakfast in China.
Zhenjiang
City guide · 12 tours
Three hills, one ferry landing, and an unreasonable share of Chinese literature — the Yangtze city people drive past.
Changzhou
City guide · 12 tours
A 2,500-year-old canal city that built a dinosaur park and refuses to apologise for it.
Wuzhen
City guide · 12 tours
A town that is two towns: the older, quieter East Zone and the lit-up West Zone you sleep inside.
Xitang
City guide · 12 tours
Nine canals, 122 lanes, one long roofed corridor — and a town that still works for a living.
Hangzhou
City guide · 12 tours
A lake in the middle of a city, a tea village in the hills, and two thousand years of getting the mood right.
Xixi Wetland
City guide · 12 tours
Ten square kilometres of marsh inside Hangzhou, and the only way into half of it is a boat.
Ningbo
City guide · 12 tours
A 7,000-year-old port with Asia's oldest private library, a free waterfront 20 years older than Shanghai's, and the best seafood before the islands.
Mount Putuo
City guide · 12 tours
A Buddhist island with no cars, three great temples and a ¥10 lunch that is the point of the place.
Qiandao Lake
City guide · 12 tours
A thousand islands that did not exist sixty years ago, and the cleanest big-lake water in China.
Shaoxing
City guide · 12 tours
Two and a half thousand years of water-town China, and Lu Xun's house is free.
Zhoushan
City guide · 12 tours
1,390 islands, one road bridge in, and a harbour that lands more fish than almost anywhere on earth.
Hengdian
City guide · 12 tours
A backlot the size of a town, where the palaces are copies and the film crews are real.
Yandang Mountain
City guide · 12 tours
A volcano that weathering turned into scenery — 500-odd sights of peak, cave and waterfall across eight scenic areas.
Zhejiang
City guide · 12 tours
One small, mountainous, absurdly rich province that holds a lake, two canal towns, a Buddhist island and a dead volcano.
Hong Kong Outlying Islands
City guide · 12 tours
Two hundred-odd islands, half an hour of ferry from the financial district, and not a car on three of them.
Hong Kong Shopping
City guide · 12 tours
A duty-free port where the tag starts lower, two citywide sale seasons knock a third off, and every mall sits on an MTR exit.
Macao
City guide · 12 tours
Four hundred years of Portuguese streets, a fake Venice under a painted sky, and the best egg tart in Asia.
Urumqi
City guide · 12 tours
The city furthest from the sea, with a snow range on its doorstep and dinner starting at nine.
Hong Kong SAR, China
City guide · 11 tours
A harbour skyline you already know by heart, dim sum trolleys at dawn, and 260 islands an hour from the neon.
Taiwan, China
City guide · 11 tours
Night-market alleys, high-mountain railways, and a coastline that changes character every hundred kilometres.
Qinghai Lake
City guide · 12 tours
A 4,400 sq km inland sea at 3,200 m, ringed by rapeseed gold, prayer flags and the best cycling road in China.
Mount Emei
City guide · 11 tours
A 3,099-metre Buddhist summit you can reach by cable car before lunch — and a mountain full of monkeys that will absolutely rob you.
Beijing
City guide · 11 tours
Six centuries of imperial red walls, a Great Wall you can climb before lunch, and the best roast duck on earth.
Taipei
City guide · 11 tours
A 24-hour bookstore, a night market that never stops sizzling, and a city that apologises when you bump into it.
North Xinjiang
City guide · 11 tours
Alpine lakes the colour of poured enamel, a village of log cabins under birch trees, and the last tear the Atlantic ever sheds.
Lanzhou
City guide · 11 tours
A city split in half by the Yellow River, where beef noodles are a breakfast ritual and the Silk Road still runs through the streets.
Mount Hua
City guide · 11 tours
Five granite peaks, one plank road bolted to a cliff face, and a sunrise that justifies the 2am start.
Dunhuang
City guide · 11 tours
A desert oasis where Buddhist cave art survived a thousand years and a crescent lake refused to dry up.
Gannan
City guide · 11 tours
433 kilometres of the Yellow River's first bend, a 3.5 km prayer-wheel circuit, and Tibetan grasslands almost nobody has commercialised yet.
Sichuan–Tibet Highway
City guide · 11 tours
2,142 kilometres of cliff-edge switchbacks, four of China's most beautiful mountains, and a road the Tibetans walk on their knees.
Kangding
City guide · 11 tours
The town that gave Asia its most famous love song, a 7,556m sacred peak on its doorstep, and the last real Tibetan town before the road climbs to Lhasa.
Lhasa
City guide · 12 tours
A city of prayer wheels and butter lamps at 3,700 metres, where the sun shines 3,000 hours a year and the world's highest palace watches over it all.
Nyingchi
City guide · 11 tours
Tibet's greenest corner — peach blossom valleys, a 7,782 m peak that hides from almost everyone, and the world's deepest canyon.
Namtso
City guide · 11 tours
A 1,920-square-kilometre sheet of impossible blue at 4,718 metres, ringed by snow peaks and prayer flags.
Chongqing
City guide · 12 tours
A vertical city of fog, cable cars and cliff-side stilt houses, where the火锅 never stops boiling and the night skyline outshines Hong Kong.
Qiandongnan
City guide · 11 tours
A thousand Miao households stacked up a mountainside, drum towers and wind-rain bridges in Dong villages, and a 600-year-old Ming garrison town on the road to Guiyang.
Libo
City guide · 11 tours
Emerald rivers threading through karst peaks, a 600-metre forest growing out of a riverbed, and China's largest wild plum grove.
Guiyang
City guide · 11 tours
China's summer capital at 1,100 metres, where the nights run on sour fish soup, street-side barbecue and mahjong that never quite stops.
Zhenyuan
City guide · 11 tours
A 2,000-year-old river town where the Wuyang River carves an S through the mountains and every lane hides a story.
Huangguoshu
City guide · 11 tours
Asia's biggest waterfall, and the only one on earth you can walk behind, above and around — plus 600-year-old Ming dynasty villages a short drive away.
Harbin
City guide · 11 tours
Minus 30 degrees, a frozen river you can walk across, and a cathedral built by Russians who never went home.
Yunnan
City guide · 11 tours
Snow mountains, tropical rainforest, twenty-five minorities and a plate of rice noodles — all in one province.
Shanghai
City guide · 11 tours
A 1920s waterfront of colonial banks facing a science-fiction skyline, soup dumplings you eat with a straw, and 20 million people moving like clockwork.
Zhangjiajie
City guide · 11 tours
Three thousand sandstone pillars straight out of Avatar, a glass skywalk bolted to a cliff, and a cable car that leaves from downtown.
Guangzhou
City guide · 11 tours
A 2,200-year-old trading port where dim sum is a religion, colonial islands sit beside 600-metre towers, and the food never stops.
Guilin
City guide · 11 tours
Karst peaks rising straight out of a green river, rice terraces carved into mountainsides, and the best bowl of noodles you'll eat in China.
Shenzhen
City guide · 11 tours
A fishing village that became a megacity in forty years — and it still has 500-year-old banyans, empty beaches and dim sum worth the border crossing.
Chengdu
City guide · 11 tours
A 3,000-year-old city where the schedule is tea, mahjong and hotpot — and the pandas are just the opening act.
Xinjiang
City guide · 11 tours
Snow peaks, grassland, desert and oasis — one-sixth of China, and the longest road you will ever ride.
Xi'an
City guide · 14 tours
Thirteen dynasties of emperors, a terracotta army buried for 2,200 years, and a walled city you can cycle in 100 minutes.
Qinghai
City guide · 11 tours
China's high-altitude blue heart: a salt lake you can walk on, a 3,200-metre sea, and yak butter tea at the roof of the world.
Tibet
City guide · 11 tours
A plateau the size of Western Europe where the sky starts at your feet, prayer flags carry the wind, and the roads run past 8,000-metre peaks.
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