I went to Lianyungang in the May holiday, a place I had longed for, because that is where I belong. Only there do I feel my heart shake. In front of the sea I show every part of who I am, with nothing hidden. I know it understands me — only the sea truly understands how I feel inside.
Traveller note — 'A Meeting of Hearts, a Conversation Between People and Scenery'
Three of us took the overnight train from Hefei and reached Lianyungang East at half past eight. The first thing that struck everyone was how easy it felt — straight out of the station onto bus 33, one stop to the Liandao bathing beach. What I remember most is the causeway to the island: the bus took half an hour to cross it, with open sea on one side and great hills and a modern port on the other.
Traveller note — 'From Hefei to Lianyungang, Two Days at the Liandao Beach'
Lianyungang grew up around two things: the mountain that became the setting of China's best-loved novel, and the port that became the eastern end of the New Eurasian Land Bridge — the rail line running from this Yellow Sea coast all the way to Rotterdam. It is a working city that happens to have a fairy-tale mountain in the middle of it, and the contrast is half the charm.
That mountain is Flower-Fruit (Huaguo) Mountain, the traditional home of the Monkey King, and the district around it still carries the old name of Haizhou, a walled town that has stood here for more than two thousand years. The author of Journey to the West is said to have taken the setting from this coast, and the hills above the city are still dotted with the formations his story named — Water-Curtain Cave, the Seventy-Two Caves, the Pagoda of King Ashoka.
At the coast, the city does what Chinese seaside cities do: broad beaches, a fishing fleet and a menu of very fresh seafood. Jiangsu's largest island, Liandao, sits just offshore behind a long sea wall you can drive across, and its two beaches — the open Dashawan and the prettier, steeper Sumawan — are the reason people come in summer.
Lianyungang is honest about what it is: not as polished as Qingdao, not as famous as Xiamen, but cheap, calm and friendly, with a real mountain, a real island and genuinely good cheap seafood. Come in summer or autumn, bring an appetite, and give it more than a stopover.