I had always imagined a small old town in the same register as Shaoxing, and I was quite wrong: Ningbo's bustle gives up nothing to Beijing's. But down the small lanes I found my Ningbo — white walls, black eaves, unhurried and free.
A traveller's note in the source guide
We came straight out of Tianyi Pavilion and went to Moon Lake. Taking a boat out on the water is something else again — even with a motor and a steering wheel, it beats driving through a noisy city.
A note from 'Ningbo and Zhoushan on your own'
Ningbo does not look like the postcard of a Zhejiang old town. Its downtown is a modern one — glass, flyovers, a neon skyline — and its port is one of the biggest in the world. But the old city survives underneath, and it is the old city you come for: white walls and black eaves, a private library older than most of Europe's universities, and a stretch of riverfront that traded with Europe before Shanghai had a waterfront at all.
Its depth is unusual. The Hemudu site on the city's edge pushed rice farming in this delta back 7,000 years, and Ningbo has been a working port ever since — the place the first emperor's envoy Xu Fu sailed from, the harbour Arab and Korean merchants found, and the home of the merchant guild that would go on to build much of modern Shanghai. The Butterfly Lovers story is set here, and so is Chiang Kai-shek's birthplace at Xikou.
As a place to visit it is compact and cheap. Moon Lake, Tianyi Pavilion, the Drum Tower, Tianyi Square and the Old Bund sit within a couple of kilometres, and the walking between them is the pleasure. Add a day and you are on Dongqian Lake, or wandering the craft workshops of the walled town of Cicheng, or climbing to Baoguo Temple's Song-dynasty hall.
It is also the practical springboard to the Buddhist island of Putuo. Boats and coaches head south to the Zhoushan archipelago all day, so most travellers spend a night or two here before the sea crossing — and if you would rather not work out the ferries yourself, our Ningbo tour packages fold them into the trip.