Longmen Grottoes
The UNESCO-listed cliffs along the Yi River, with 2,300 caves and 100,000 Buddhist figures carved from the 5th to the 8th century. The giant Vairocana Buddha is the masterpiece.
City guide · Henan
Thirteen dynasties, 100,000 Buddhas carved into a river cliff, China's first Buddhist temple — and a whole city that turns peony-pink every April.
Reviewed by our Beijing team Updated 2026-10-10
The short version
City guide
Photographs from the coast, and what other travellers wrote afterwards.
Years ago I came to Luoyang as a boy, tagging along on my father's business trip. I don't remember much — only that on the way to the Longmen Grottoes he told me the whole story of Tarzan. So thinking of Luoyang has always felt to me like being loved by a father.
Traveller's note, Luoyang: Longmen and the Old Street
Longmen, also called Yique, was built along the Yi River. Emperor Sui Yangdi moved his capital to Luoyang, and because the Yique gate faced the palace's main entrance, it took the name 'Dragon Gate'. You can also take a boat on the Yi River to enjoy the cliffs from the water.
Traveller's note, A Cultural DIY Trip to Luoyang
Luoyang is the city that keeps turning up at the start of Chinese history. Thirteen dynasties made it their capital across some 1,500 years, from the Eastern Zhou to the Tang, and it sits in western Henan on the middle Yellow River, at the heart of the Heluo region that tradition calls the cradle of the nation. When the very first Chinese histories were written, this was the centre of the map.
The reason most people come is underground. The Longmen Grottoes stretch for a kilometre along the Yi River, two limestone hills facing each other, carved over four centuries from the Northern Wei into the Tang. There are around 100,000 figures in some 2,300 caves and niches, and the masterpiece — the giant Vairocana Buddha at Fengxian Temple — is said, in legend, to wear the face of Empress Wu Zetian herself.
And then there is the softer side of Luoyang: the old town of wood-fronted lanes and snack stalls, the temple where Buddhism first landed in China, and the spring ritual of the peony. For a fortnight every April the city decorates itself in its 'king of flowers', and there is nothing else in China quite like it.
Luoyang
Seven things that are worth rearranging a day for.
Highlights
The UNESCO-listed cliffs along the Yi River, with 2,300 caves and 100,000 Buddhist figures carved from the 5th to the 8th century. The giant Vairocana Buddha is the masterpiece.
Founded in 68 AD, China's first official Buddhist temple and the place where Buddhism is said to have taken root. Quiet halls 12 km east of the city.
The tomb and shrine of Guan Yu, the three-kingdoms general turned god of loyalty, said to hold his head. Ancient cypresses and carved eaves at their finest.
From early April to mid-May, peaking around 15 April, Luoyang becomes a city of flowers — the 'king of flowers' shown in thousands of cultivars across its parks.
Wood-fronted shops, snack stalls and the century-old Zhenbutong restaurant around the cross-street market, all behind a rebuilt gate. The city's best evening walk.
The Funiu range south of the city, with cloud-wrapped Taoist golden temples on Laojun Mountain and cool forest air on White Cloud Mountain — a full day out.
Routes
Temple, tomb, museum and caves in a single well-ordered loop.
Start at the White Horse Temple for the oldest Buddhist halls in China, then Guanlin to see Guan Yu's tomb and its cypress-lined courtyards.
After lunch, the Tianzi Jialiu museum on the Zhou royal chariot pits, then a late-afternoon run at the Longmen Grottoes — the light on the river cliffs is best as it softens toward evening.
Stops: White Horse TempleGuanlin TempleTianzi Jialiu MuseumLongmen Grottoes
Add the parks, the old town and a mountain day to the core.
Spend the morning at Wangcheng Park, where the peony beds open with the season and spring brings costume shows and painting displays.
In the afternoon take bus 9 to Lijing Gate for the old streets and the antique stalls, then finish at the new-district water-and-music fountain in the evening.
Stops: Wangcheng ParkLijing GateOld townWater-music fountain
Head out to the Mangshan ridge for the Luoyang Ancient Art Museum and its reconstructed tombs, including a domed imperial tomb with guardian beasts.
Return to the city in the afternoon, shop at Xinduhui, then walk or boat along the 16 km Luopu Park on the Luo River.
Stops: MangshanLuoyang Ancient Art MuseumXinduhuiLuopu Park
An early start at the Longmen Grottoes with a guide, so the stories behind the niches come alive; buy hand-made ginger sweets on the way out.
After lunch, the White Horse Temple for a blessing, then on to the Taixi barbecue quarter for a Muslim-cooked evening meal before returning to the city.
Stops: Longmen GrottoesWhite Horse TempleTaixi barbecue quarter
Sights
Must-see
Two hills face each other across the Yi River, carved over 400 years into roughly 2,300 caves and niches holding some 100,000 Buddhist figures. The Vairocana Buddha at Fengxian Temple, 17 m tall, is the summit of the art — serene, faintly feminine, said to be modelled on Empress Wu Zetian.
Tip Go with a guide — the inscriptions and the politics behind each cave are the whole story, and the labels do not tell it.
Pilgrimage
Founded in 68 AD in the Eastern Han, this is the first official Buddhist temple in China, named for the horses that carried the scriptures from the west. The old halls sit beside newer ones donated by Thailand, India and Myanmar, and prayers here are considered especially potent.
Tip Take incense if you want to make an offering — the temple's long bell-ringing welcomes the New Year each 31 December.
Three Kingdoms
The tomb and shrine of Guan Yu, the general deified as the god of loyalty, whose head is said to be buried here. Begun in the Ming Wanli era and enlarged under the Qing, its hundred mu of ancient cypresses, carved eaves and great tomb mound make it the finest old complex in the city.
Tip Tie a wish on the trees at the front shrine — a local custom for good fortune and safety.
Royal chariots
Built over the Eastern Zhou chariot pits, where the excavation proved the old ritual claim that only the Son of Heaven could ride behind six horses. Small, sharp and genuinely surprising, right under a city square.
Tip It is open late, so it makes a good filler between the temples and dinner.
Museums
The city museum, free and airy on Naitai Road, holds Yangshao pottery, Shang and Zhou bronzes, Tang sancai and Song porcelain. Out at Mangshan, the Luoyang Ancient Art Museum displays relocated tombs, including a domed imperial one with its guardian beasts.
Tip The city museum is the best single primer on Luoyang's 1,500 years of dynasties — go before the grottoes if you can.
Spring
Luoyang's biggest park, straddling the Jian River, with a peony garden that is the centre of the April festival. Tickets scale with the bloom — ¥40 early, ¥50 at peak, ¥25 as it fades — and in festival weeks the park adds costume shows and painting displays.
Tip Come first thing for the freshest flowers and, if you want dew on the petals, a light spray of water does the trick for photos.
Day trip
The main peak of the 800-li Funiu range and a Taoist holy mountain at 2,200 m, renamed for Laozi, who is said to have retired here. Golden temples ride the ridge above seas of cloud, and lifts and walkways carry you up.
Tip Go for sunrise or after rain, when the cloud sea is most likely — and take a jacket, it is much colder than the city.
Food
The city's signature feast: 24 dishes served in waves, hot ones all swimming in broth, cleared and replaced like flowing water. Mixed meat and vegetable, sour, hot, sweet and salty in turn.
The 'peony' dish of the Water Banquet — shredded radish and egg arranged to look like a yellow peony floating in soup. The one to order and photograph first.
A 120-year-old Luoyang original, tangy and peppery with the 'un-flipped' pancake cooked in the broth. Best at a plain old-town shop around Jiuye Yuan.
Beef broth with peanuts, gluten, tofu skin and noodles, spiced with pepper and finished with vinegar and sesame oil — the local breakfast.
Roasted flour stirred into a savoury broth, topped with sesame paste and fried dough — warm, filling and a Luoyang morning habit.
One of the great Luoyang soup bowls, alongside tofu and meatball soups — cheap, hot and best in winter.
Where to eat
The classic
Luoyang's most famous Water Banquet house, serving the full 24-dish spread from cold plates to mains. The peony dish arrives looking like a flower floating in its bowl.
Street food
The old-town market where the city's snacks gather — skewers, grilled gluten and squid, meatballs, fried rice cakes — the easy way to eat across Luoyang in one evening.
Local breakfast
The old town's go-to for a bowl of mutton soup — good, cheap and busy from early morning, and easy to pair with a walk through Lijing Gate.
Evening
A Muslim-quarter barbecue quarter where the grills are halal and the tables spill into the street. Reach it by bus, then eat skewer after skewer.
Modern
The city's main modern shopping-and-dining complex, near Wangcheng Park, with restaurants, a cinema and the local favourite Baiwan Mutton Soup under one roof.
Where to stay
Central comfort
A full-service hotel in the CBD on Jiudu Road, close to the shopping centres and within easy reach of Tianzi Jialiu, Longmen, Guanlin and the White Horse Temple. The peony festival's main venues are a short walk away.
Budget
A riverside hostel on Jiudu Road, close to the Luopu Park and the Peony Bridge. Simple, cheap and well placed for both the station and the old town.
Old town
The oldest and best-known hostel in Luoyang, opposite the Youth Palace square in the heart of the old town — a ten-minute walk from the cross-street food market and close to every sight.
Mid-range
A modern hotel on the central shopping strip, opposite the old museum and near Wangcheng Park, with good transport links to every direction of the city.
Near the grottoes
Built on the Sui-Tang ruins, 15 minutes' drive from the Longmen Grottoes and on the city's tourist circuit. Bus 33 runs direct from the high-speed station, buses link everywhere else.
Getting there
Luoyang Beijiao Airport (LYA) sits on Mangshan, 10 km north of the centre, with routes to Guangzhou, Chengdu, Dalian and others. For long-haul, use Zhengzhou Xinzheng (CGO), about 1.5 hours by road.
Luoyang Longmen Station is on the main high-speed line — Xi'an in about 1.5 hours, Zhengzhou in 40 minutes, Beijing in roughly 4. The quickest way in and out.
Luoyang Station downtown is where the Longhai and Jiaozhi trunk lines meet, with slow services across the country. Buses 2, 5, 6, 10, 81 and more reach it.
Three bus stations fan out to the region: the main terminal east of the station, Jinyuan for nearby sights and counties, and Guanlin for the broader county routes. Daily tourist coaches run to the mountains in summer.
Buses cost ¥1 or ¥1.5 and reach every sight — 81 and 53 to Longmen, 56 to the White Horse Temple. Taxis start at ¥5 for 2 km then ¥1.5/km, rising after 10pm; watch the odd-even plate rule on Zhongzhou Road by day.
Shopping
The glazed yellow-green-and-white pottery the Tang is known for, dug up mostly around Luoyang — hence 'Luoyang sancai'. Buy at Sancaiyi by Lijing Gate or the studios near the old town.
Cast copies of Western Zhou and Han bronzes — horses, vessels, figures — made by the city's craft workshops and good as desk pieces.
A Luoyang specialty grown for a thousand years, sweet and crisp and once sent to the emperor. Best in autumn.
Big, red and juicy, from the Baimang cherry valley north of the city — a late-April to May treat to eat on the spot.
Practical
The peony season is the busiest fortnight of the year — everything from hotels to train tickets is tighter and dearer, so plan and book early.
| Longmen Grottoes | ¥120 combined; 7:30–18:00 |
|---|---|
| White Horse Temple | ¥50; 7:30–17:30 |
| Guanlin Temple | ¥40; 8:00–17:00 |
| Tianzi Jialiu Museum | ¥30; open until 22:00 |
| Peony festival | Early April – mid-May; book hotels weeks ahead |
| Tourist helpline | 12301; complaints 0379-64310882 |
| Hospital | Luoyang Central Hospital, 288 Zhongzhou Middle Rd · 0379-63892130 |
| Cash | Carry some — ATMs are scarce at the sights |
Tips
The peony festival lifts hotel prices across the board and fills rooms — reserve weeks ahead, and buy long-distance tickets the moment they go on sale.
The caves make little sense without context — a guide turns a walk past stone into the politics, faith and art of four centuries.
On Zhongzhou Road, taxis run on an odd-even plate system by day. Flag one on the correct side, or use the metro and buses.
Midday brings the coaches. An early start or a late-afternoon visit gives you softer light and space on the walkways.
The old town around Lijing Gate or the CBD on Jiudu Road puts the food, the sights and transport within easy reach.
Small shops and street stalls work easiest with cash, and withdrawing at the sights is not convenient.
Background
Luoyang sits in western Henan on the south bank of the Yellow River, named for its position on the north side of the old Luo River. It calls itself the 'first royal capital of China' and the city that was 'built as a capital from the day it was founded' — thirteen dynasties ruled from here, and the words 'Zhongzhou', 'Zhongyuan' and 'China' itself are said to trace back to this region.
In the summer of 770 BC the Zhou moved east to Luoyang, and the city became the stage for 515 years of Eastern Zhou rule. It was capital again under the Eastern Han, the Northern Wei, the Sui and the Tang; by Tang times its population passed a million. Even after the capitals moved away, its place as the birthplace of the Heluo culture — and of the 'He Tu Luo Shu' diagrams at the root of Chinese cosmology — kept it central to the national story.
Luoyang is where Chinese Buddhism begins. The White Horse Temple, founded in 68 AD, is the first official Buddhist temple in the country, and it was from here that the faith spread and the great cave complexes were carved. The Longmen Grottoes, begun under the Northern Wei and carried on through the Tang, are the visible proof — 400 years of imperial devotion cut into the limestone.
The city's other enduring symbol is the peony. Luoyang's soil and climate suit it perfectly, and by the Tang the city had become the empire's peony capital — the flower is still called 'the king of flowers'. The modern festival began in 1983 and became a national event in 2011, and every spring it turns the whole city, parks and roadsides alike, into a blaze of colour.
Travel with them
CCTV
A sweeping survey of the city's place at the centre of Chinese history — the dynasties, the water, the culture and the people that shaped it.
Yang Xuanzhi (Northern Wei)
A Northern Wei classic describing the city's temples that doubles as a portrait of its politics, customs and geography. The best way to imagine Luoyang in its Buddhist heyday.
Tian Hua
A song by a Luoyang-born singer that has become a local anthem for the city and its flower — the soundtrack for an April visit.
The questions visitors ask us most about Luoyang, answered plainly.
Prices and practical details are reviewed every month by our Beijing team and updated the day a rule changes.
Two days for the city: Longmen Grottoes and the Luoyang Museum on day one, the White Horse Temple, Guanlin and the old town on day two. A third day adds Laojun Mountain or the ancient-tombs museum at Mangshan. Add half a day in mid-April for the peonies.
Mid-April for the peony festival, which peaks around 15 April, or September to November for clear, dry weather and fewer crowds. Summer is hot and wet, winter dry and cold, and the peony fortnight is by far the busiest and most expensive time of year.
Yes. The combined ticket of about ¥120 also covers Bai Garden and Xiangshan Temple, so plan a half-day. Go early or late for soft light and thinner crowds; the caves face the river, and the evening illumination makes the cliffs glow.
High-speed rail is easiest — Luoyang Longmen Station links Xi'an in about 1.5 hours, Zhengzhou in 40 minutes and Beijing in roughly 4. Regional flights use Luoyang Beijiao (LYA), 10 km north of town; for long-haul, fly into Zhengzhou Xinzheng (CGO) and connect.
The Luoyang Water Banquet — 24 dishes served in waves, every one swimming in broth. Order the peony dish (Mudan Yancai), sliced pork in soup and fried meatballs. The old town around Lijing Gate and the cross-street market are the best places to try it, and street food is cheap.
Yes, and it is a popular day trip. The Shaolin Temple at Songshan in Dengfeng is about 80 km away, roughly 90 minutes by coach from Luoyang's long-distance bus station or by car on the expressway. The temple ticket is about ¥100; a private tour can pair it with the grottoes.
Yes, definitely. During the peony festival hotel prices across the city spike — even a standard three-star room can top ¥400 — and rooms sell out. Book your hotel, train and any flights several weeks ahead if you are coming in April.
Plan this trip
The same places, with a driver, an English-speaking guide and the tickets already bought.
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City guide · 12 tours
A backlot the size of a town, where the palaces are copies and the film crews are real.
Yandang Mountain
City guide · 12 tours
A volcano that weathering turned into scenery — 500-odd sights of peak, cave and waterfall across eight scenic areas.
Zhejiang
City guide · 12 tours
One small, mountainous, absurdly rich province that holds a lake, two canal towns, a Buddhist island and a dead volcano.
Hong Kong Outlying Islands
City guide · 12 tours
Two hundred-odd islands, half an hour of ferry from the financial district, and not a car on three of them.
Hong Kong Shopping
City guide · 12 tours
A duty-free port where the tag starts lower, two citywide sale seasons knock a third off, and every mall sits on an MTR exit.
Macao
City guide · 12 tours
Four hundred years of Portuguese streets, a fake Venice under a painted sky, and the best egg tart in Asia.
Urumqi
City guide · 12 tours
The city furthest from the sea, with a snow range on its doorstep and dinner starting at nine.
Hong Kong SAR, China
City guide · 11 tours
A harbour skyline you already know by heart, dim sum trolleys at dawn, and 260 islands an hour from the neon.
Taiwan, China
City guide · 11 tours
Night-market alleys, high-mountain railways, and a coastline that changes character every hundred kilometres.
Qinghai Lake
City guide · 12 tours
A 4,400 sq km inland sea at 3,200 m, ringed by rapeseed gold, prayer flags and the best cycling road in China.
Mount Emei
City guide · 11 tours
A 3,099-metre Buddhist summit you can reach by cable car before lunch — and a mountain full of monkeys that will absolutely rob you.
Beijing
City guide · 11 tours
Six centuries of imperial red walls, a Great Wall you can climb before lunch, and the best roast duck on earth.
Taipei
City guide · 11 tours
A 24-hour bookstore, a night market that never stops sizzling, and a city that apologises when you bump into it.
North Xinjiang
City guide · 11 tours
Alpine lakes the colour of poured enamel, a village of log cabins under birch trees, and the last tear the Atlantic ever sheds.
Lanzhou
City guide · 11 tours
A city split in half by the Yellow River, where beef noodles are a breakfast ritual and the Silk Road still runs through the streets.
Mount Hua
City guide · 11 tours
Five granite peaks, one plank road bolted to a cliff face, and a sunrise that justifies the 2am start.
Dunhuang
City guide · 11 tours
A desert oasis where Buddhist cave art survived a thousand years and a crescent lake refused to dry up.
Gannan
City guide · 11 tours
433 kilometres of the Yellow River's first bend, a 3.5 km prayer-wheel circuit, and Tibetan grasslands almost nobody has commercialised yet.
Sichuan–Tibet Highway
City guide · 11 tours
2,142 kilometres of cliff-edge switchbacks, four of China's most beautiful mountains, and a road the Tibetans walk on their knees.
Kangding
City guide · 11 tours
The town that gave Asia its most famous love song, a 7,556m sacred peak on its doorstep, and the last real Tibetan town before the road climbs to Lhasa.
Lhasa
City guide · 12 tours
A city of prayer wheels and butter lamps at 3,700 metres, where the sun shines 3,000 hours a year and the world's highest palace watches over it all.
Nyingchi
City guide · 11 tours
Tibet's greenest corner — peach blossom valleys, a 7,782 m peak that hides from almost everyone, and the world's deepest canyon.
Namtso
City guide · 11 tours
A 1,920-square-kilometre sheet of impossible blue at 4,718 metres, ringed by snow peaks and prayer flags.
Chongqing
City guide · 12 tours
A vertical city of fog, cable cars and cliff-side stilt houses, where the火锅 never stops boiling and the night skyline outshines Hong Kong.
Qiandongnan
City guide · 11 tours
A thousand Miao households stacked up a mountainside, drum towers and wind-rain bridges in Dong villages, and a 600-year-old Ming garrison town on the road to Guiyang.
Libo
City guide · 11 tours
Emerald rivers threading through karst peaks, a 600-metre forest growing out of a riverbed, and China's largest wild plum grove.
Guiyang
City guide · 11 tours
China's summer capital at 1,100 metres, where the nights run on sour fish soup, street-side barbecue and mahjong that never quite stops.
Zhenyuan
City guide · 11 tours
A 2,000-year-old river town where the Wuyang River carves an S through the mountains and every lane hides a story.
Huangguoshu
City guide · 11 tours
Asia's biggest waterfall, and the only one on earth you can walk behind, above and around — plus 600-year-old Ming dynasty villages a short drive away.
Harbin
City guide · 11 tours
Minus 30 degrees, a frozen river you can walk across, and a cathedral built by Russians who never went home.
Yunnan
City guide · 11 tours
Snow mountains, tropical rainforest, twenty-five minorities and a plate of rice noodles — all in one province.
Shanghai
City guide · 11 tours
A 1920s waterfront of colonial banks facing a science-fiction skyline, soup dumplings you eat with a straw, and 20 million people moving like clockwork.
Zhangjiajie
City guide · 11 tours
Three thousand sandstone pillars straight out of Avatar, a glass skywalk bolted to a cliff, and a cable car that leaves from downtown.
Guangzhou
City guide · 11 tours
A 2,200-year-old trading port where dim sum is a religion, colonial islands sit beside 600-metre towers, and the food never stops.
Guilin
City guide · 11 tours
Karst peaks rising straight out of a green river, rice terraces carved into mountainsides, and the best bowl of noodles you'll eat in China.
Shenzhen
City guide · 11 tours
A fishing village that became a megacity in forty years — and it still has 500-year-old banyans, empty beaches and dim sum worth the border crossing.
Chengdu
City guide · 11 tours
A 3,000-year-old city where the schedule is tea, mahjong and hotpot — and the pandas are just the opening act.
Xinjiang
City guide · 11 tours
Snow peaks, grassland, desert and oasis — one-sixth of China, and the longest road you will ever ride.
Xi'an
City guide · 14 tours
Thirteen dynasties of emperors, a terracotta army buried for 2,200 years, and a walled city you can cycle in 100 minutes.
Qinghai
City guide · 11 tours
China's high-altitude blue heart: a salt lake you can walk on, a 3,200-metre sea, and yak butter tea at the roof of the world.
Tibet
City guide · 11 tours
A plateau the size of Western Europe where the sky starts at your feet, prayer flags carry the wind, and the roads run past 8,000-metre peaks.
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