City guide · Fujian

Fuzhou travel guide: the old lanes, the mountain temple and the birthplace of the modern navy

A 2,200-year-old capital of banyan trees and mountains-within-the-city, where the Ming lanes of Sanfang Qixiang meet the dockyard that built China's modern navy.

  • Known forSanfang Qixiang · Gushan · naval history
  • Typical spend¥600–1,100 for two days
  • Ideal length2–3 days
  • PaceGentle — lanes, tea and a mountain

Reviewed by our Beijing team Updated 2026-10-10

The short version

Fuzhou is the 2,200-year-old capital of Fujian and the calm, green counterweight to Xiamen — a city of banyan trees, rivers and low hills, with two things no other city has: the intact Ming-dynasty lanes of Sanfang Qixiang, 40 hectares of courtyard houses still lived in, and Mawei, the riverside dockyard and naval academy that made it the cradle of China's modern navy. Two days covers the old town and one mountain; a third adds Mawei and the hot springs. It is 2 hours from Xiamen by high-speed rail.

  • Two days for the old town and a mountain; a third for Mawei and the hot springs.
  • Sanfang Qixiang — the Three Lanes and Seven Alleys — is a free, 40-hectare Ming and Qing quarter.
  • Gushan and its 1,000-year-old Yongquan Temple are a half-day; a cable car does the climb.
  • Fuzhou is a hot-spring city and the heart of China's jasmine-tea country.
  • Best months are October–November, then March–May; it rains year-round, so pack an umbrella.

City guide

First impressions

Photographs from the coast, and what other travellers wrote afterwards.

Sanfang Qixiang — the Ming lanes of the old town
Sanfang Qixiang — the Ming lanes of the old town
Gushan and Yongquan Temple, in the hills above the city
Gushan and Yongquan Temple, in the hills above the city
Mawei — the dockyard that built China's modern navy
Mawei — the dockyard that built China's modern navy
Fish balls, 'meat swallow' wontons and a pot of jasmine tea
Fish balls, 'meat swallow' wontons and a pot of jasmine tea

I chose a city nobody was talking about, Fuzhou, and fell for its old lanes, its naval history and the Min River at night — and for the way its people live, at ease and without needing to prove anything.

Traveller note — 'Three Days in the Banyan City'

The stone-paved lanes, the old wires strung above them, the low white walls leaning together — it looks like a painting of a city that decided to stay where it was.

Traveller note — 'Walking, Meeting Fuzhou'

Fuzhou does not show off, and that is exactly the point. It is the capital of Fujian and one of the oldest cities in China — founded in 202 BC — but its age is hidden behind a modern surface of rivers, bridges and banyan trees, the trees that give it its nickname, the City of Banyans. Locals describe the layout in a single phrase: mountains in the city, city in the mountains.

At its heart is Sanfang Qixiang, three lanes and seven alleys of white-walled, tile-roofed courtyard houses — 40 hectares of them, most still intact, some still lived in. Around it sit the city's small pleasures: the West Lake on the western edge, the Xichan Temple in the hills, the little Yu Mountain in the middle of town, and a scatter of pagodas and gardens.

Downriver, the district of Mawei is where it turns serious. Here, in 1866, the Qing dynasty founded the Fuzhou shipyard and its naval academy — the cradle of China's modern navy and one of the birthplaces of its modern industry and engineering. It is a half-day of museums and riverbank, and it is the history that makes Fuzhou more than just a pretty old town.

And Fuzhou is a city you eat and drink in. Fish balls with a hidden meat filling, 'meat swallow' wontons, lychee pork, taro purée and the famous Buddha Jumps Over the Wall all come from here, and the local jasmine tea has set a national standard for centuries. Come in autumn for the clearest skies; come any time and bring an umbrella, because Fuzhou is one of the rainiest cities in China.

Fuzhou

Don't leave without

Seven things that are worth rearranging a day for.

  1. Walk Sanfang Qixiang in the evening, when the lanterns come on
  2. Climb Gushan early and find Yongquan Temple in the mist
  3. Stand on the riverbank at Mawei, where the modern navy began
  4. Eat fish balls with a meat filling, and 'meat swallow' wontons, in the same day
  5. Order Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, in the city that invented it
  6. Take tea, properly, in the jasmine-tea capital of China
  7. Soak in a hot spring — Fuzhou sits on a whole belt of them

Highlights

What not to miss in Fuzhou

Sanfang Qixiang, the Ming lanes

Sanfang Qixiang, the Ming lanes

Three lanes and seven alleys of white-walled, tile-roofed courtyard houses — 40 hectares of Ming and Qing architecture, still lived in and free to wander. Go slowly, and ideally in the evening when the lanterns come on.

Gushan and Yongquan Temple

Gushan and Yongquan Temple

The city's own mountain, an easy morning's climb or a cable-car ride, with the 1,000-year-old Yongquan Temple in the basin at its shoulder. Go early, for the mist and the quiet.

Mawei and the naval museums

Mawei and the naval museums

The riverside birthplace of China's modern navy — a 19th-century shipyard, a naval academy and the old battlefields, with the Luo Xing Pagoda that once guided ships up the Min River.

West Lake Park

A 1,700-year-old classical garden on the city's western edge, with its eight named beauty spots. Free and open late, and best at dusk or first thing in the morning.

Fuzhou's kitchen

Fuzhou's kitchen

Fish balls with a hidden meat filling, 'meat swallow' wontons, lychee pork, taro purée and the famous Buddha Jumps Over the Wall — one of China's most distinctive regional cuisines.

Hot springs and jasmine tea

Fuzhou sits on a belt of hot springs, and its jasmine tea has been a national benchmark for centuries. A soak and a proper tea house are both worth half a day of the trip.

Suggested itineraries

The old town in a day, and the full three

Day one is walkable. Gushan and Mawei are both across town, so allow a taxi or the sightseeing bus.

The old town in a day

1 days

Sanfang Qixiang, West Lake and Yu Mountain — the city's historic heart on foot, with a tea break in the middle.

  1. Morning

    Sanfang Qixiang

    Start in the lanes and take them slowly — the courtyard houses, the small halls, the side alleys off Nanhou Street. This is the city's signature and it rewards an unhurried hour or two.

    Break for fish balls and 'meat swallow' wontons on Nanhou Street, the food street that threads the district.

    Stops: Sanfang QixiangNanhou StreetYijin FangWenru Fang

  2. Afternoon

    West Lake, then Yu Mountain

    Walk or ride to West Lake Park on the western edge and follow one of its eight named views around the water.

    Come back into the centre and climb little Yu Mountain, poking into its temples and pagoda and its old cliff inscriptions.

    Stops: West Lake ParkYu MountainDingguang Pagoda

  3. Evening

    Tea, then the lanes again

    Finish with a proper jasmine tea, then walk Sanfang Qixiang a second time after dark, when the lanterns are lit and the day-trippers have gone.

    Stops: Tea houseSanfang Qixiang by night

Three days, done properly

3 days

Add the mountain temple and the naval history, and eat properly along the way.

  1. Day 1

    The old town

    Run the one-day plan above: Sanfang Qixiang, West Lake, Yu Mountain and an evening in the lanes.

    Stops: Sanfang QixiangWest LakeYu Mountain

  2. Day 2

    Gushan and Yongquan Temple

    Head for Gushan in the morning, climb or take the cable car, and spend the middle of the day at Yongquan Temple in the mountain basin.

    Come down in the afternoon and slow the rest of the day down — a temple, a garden or simply the river.

    Stops: GushanCable carYongquan Temple

  3. Day 3

    Mawei and the river

    Go downriver to Mawei for the China Ship Culture Museum, the old shipyard and the Luo Xing Pagoda. Give it half a day — it is a way out of the centre.

    Eat a full Fuzhou dinner on the way back, ordering Buddha Jumps Over the Wall if you booked one, and end in a hot-spring bathhouse.

    Stops: MaweiChina Ship Culture MuseumLuo Xing PagodaHot spring

Sights

The places worth your time

Ticket prices change without much notice. Treat these as a guide and confirm on arrival.

Sanfang Qixiang (Three Lanes and Seven Alleys)

Historic quarter · Free

Sanfang Qixiang (Three Lanes and Seven Alleys)

The best-preserved old quarter of any city in Fujian: three lanes running north–south and seven alleys running east–west, laid out as a Ming and Qing residential grid of white-walled, tile-roofed courtyard mansions. Around 268 old houses remain, most intact, some still lived in, and the district has been home to generations of officials, scholars and gentry — which is why its halls and gardens are unusually fine.

Ticket
Free (individual halls may charge)
Hours
Open all day; best from late afternoon into the evening
Where
Nanhou Street, Gulou District, city centre
Getting there
Metro and buses to the city centre; the lanes run off Nanhou Street
Time needed
2–3 hours

Tip Come first in the late afternoon and again after dark. By day it is shops and crowds; in the evening, lit and quiet, it is the city at its most itself.

Gushan and Yongquan Temple

Mountain · Temple

Gushan and Yongquan Temple

Gushan, 'Drum Mountain', is the peak the city climbs, so named because a boulder on its summit is said to sound like a drum when storms pass. High in a basin on its shoulder sits Yongquan Temple — the leading temple of Fujian, more than a thousand years old, built so that from outside you cannot see the temple and from inside you cannot see the mountain. The stone steps and the views make the walk.

Ticket
About ¥40 including the temple; the mountain walk alone is free
Cable car
About ¥50 return, ¥35 one way, a 25-minute ride
Hours
About 06:00–17:30
Where
Gushan, Jinshan District, east of the centre
Getting there
Buses to Gushan; cable car to the summit ridge
Time needed
3–4 hours

Tip Take the cable car up and walk down, or start early enough to do both on foot. In the morning the mountain sits in mist, which is the whole reason to come.

China Ship Culture Museum and Luo Xing Pagoda

Museum · Naval history

China Ship Culture Museum and Luo Xing Pagoda

In Mawei, downriver, this museum tells the story of the 19th-century Fuzhou shipyard and naval academy — the 'cradle of China's modern navy' and one of the birthplaces of the country's modern industry. The building is shaped like two ships under sail. Nearby, the old Luo Xing Pagoda was the marker that guided vessels up the Min River, and it still gives the best view over the river mouth.

Ticket
Museum about ¥15; Luo Xing Pagoda Park about ¥5
Hours
Museum about 09:00–17:00; pagoda park about 08:00–17:30
Where
Mawei District, downriver from the centre
Getting there
Buses to Mawei, about 40–50 minutes from the centre
Time needed
Half a day

Tip Mawei is a long way out and there is little else around it, so pair the museum and the pagoda and treat it as one half-day rather than weaving it into a city day.

West Lake Park

Garden · Free

West Lake Park

The oldest and best-preserved classical garden in Fuzhou, with more than 1,700 years behind it, on the city's western edge. It has eight named views — the willow-lined causeway, the pines, the tower against the setting sun and others — laid out around a lake with pavilions, bridges and islands. Free, open late, and one of the nicest places in the city to slow down.

Ticket
Free
Hours
05:30–22:30
Where
70 Hubin Road, Gulou District
Getting there
Buses to West Lake Park stop
Time needed
1.5 hours

Tip Go at dusk or at opening. It is a genuine city park as well as a heritage garden, and the local life at either end of the day is half the pleasure.

Lin Zexu Memorial Hall

Memorial · History

Lin Zexu Memorial Hall

A courtyard memorial in the city centre to Lin Zexu, the Fuzhou-born Qing official who destroyed a fortune in British opium at Humen in 1839 and is remembered in China as the man who stood up to the colonial powers. The site is his ancestral hall, with a carved relief of the opium destruction on the entrance screen and exhibits on his career and the Opium War.

Ticket
About ¥20
Hours
09:00–17:00
Where
16 Aomen Road, Gulou District
Getting there
Buses to Daoshan Road, then a short walk
Time needed
45 minutes

Tip It is small and central, so slot it between the lanes and West Lake rather than making a special trip. The relief at the entrance is the piece to look for.

Xichan Temple

Temple · Five Great Temples

Xichan Temple

One of Fuzhou's five great Buddhist temples, founded in the Tang dynasty and set in the western hills, with 36 halls and buildings across seven hectares. Its gateway carries a couplet linking the temple to the Tang, and the complex is grand and largely unsentimental — a working monastery rather than a heritage garden.

Ticket
About ¥20
Hours
07:00–18:00
Where
455 Gongye Road, Gulou District
Getting there
Buses to the temple area in the western hills
Time needed
1 hour

Tip It is west of the centre, so pair it with West Lake rather than trying to see it on the same day as Mawei, which is the opposite direction.

Yu Mountain (Yushan)

Hill · Historic

Yu Mountain (Yushan)

The small, wooded hill in the middle of the city, also known as Nine-Day Mountain, packed with history for its size: temples, a pagoda, and more than a hundred cliff inscriptions from the Song dynasty down to the modern era. It is the easiest of Fuzhou's hills to walk, and a good way to break up a day in the old town.

Ticket
Free
Hours
About 08:30–17:30
Where
Central Gulou District, near the old town
Getting there
Buses to Yu Mountain; a short walk from Sanfang Qixiang
Time needed
1 hour

Tip Walk up from the old town in the late afternoon and look for the cliff carvings — a few minutes' climb buys you the whole city laid out below.

Fujian Museum

Museum · Free

Fujian Museum

The province's main museum, sitting on the strip between West Lake and Zuohai Park, with collections that run from Fujian's archaeology and history to its natural specimens and art. It is the best single place to put the rest of the trip in context — particularly the maritime and Min-culture exhibits.

Ticket
Free
Hours
09:00–17:00; closed Mondays
Where
96 Hutou Street, Gulou District
Getting there
Between West Lake and Zuohai Park; buses to the museum stop
Time needed
2 hours

Tip It closes on Mondays without exception. It sits right beside West Lake, so it pairs neatly with a garden afternoon rather than eating a whole day.

Eating

What Fuzhou tastes like

Fuzhou's kitchen is one of the most distinctive in China — light, faintly sweet and full of textural tricks. Order widely; the portions are modest.

Fuzhou fish balls

The local version is not just fish: the pounded fish paste is wrapped around a pork filling, so the ball bursts with juice when you bite it. Served in a clear broth, they are the city's single most famous bite.

Meat swallow (rouyan)

A wonton whose wrapper is not dough but a paper-thin sheet pounded from meat and starch, giving a springy, almost translucent skin. Lighter and more delicate than it sounds, and a Fuzhou signature.

Buddha Jumps Over the Wall

Fuzhou's great banquet dish: a sealed pot of shark fin, sea cucumber, abalone, chicken, ham, mushrooms, quail eggs and more, slow-braised together until the flavours fuse. It is expensive, it is a production, and it is best ordered in advance.

Lychee pork

Pork cut into a cross-hatch so it curls into a ball when fried, then glossed with a sweet-and-sour sauce — named for looking, and tasting, like lychees. Two or three hundred years old and still the dish that tests a Fuzhou kitchen.

Taro purée (yuni)

The classic Fujian dessert: taro steamed and pressed to a smooth purée, sweetened and garnished with red dates, melon candies and seeds. Silky and rich — Fuzhou's answer to a Western dessert course.

Guobianhu (rice soup)

A breakfast soup made by ladling rice batter around the rim of a hot wok so it sets into thin flakes, then scraping them into a seafood broth. Quick, savoury and thoroughly local.

Where to eat

Restaurants worth the address

Phone numbers are local landlines; add +86 and drop the leading 0 if calling from abroad.

Fujian cuisine · Landmark

Juchunyuan (聚春园)

Fuzhou's oldest restaurant, founded in 1865 and the house that invented Buddha Jumps Over the Wall. It is the full formal Fujian banquet experience — expensive, ceremonial and worth it once. Order the bird's-nest-and-abalone centrepiece and the lychee pork, and book ahead.

Order
Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, lychee pork, taro purée
Where
2 Dong Street (3rd floor, Juchunyuan Hotel), Gulou District
Phone
0591-87533604

Snacks · Century-old

Antailou (安泰楼)

A century-old name on the edge of the old town, best for Fuzhou snacks rather than a formal meal: guobianhu rice soup, taro purée and fried oyster omelette. Cheap, busy and central — the easiest place to try the local small dishes in one sitting.

Order
Guobianhu, taro purée, fried oyster omelette
Where
39 Jibi Road, Gulou District
Phone
0591-87550890

Fish balls · Old shop

Yonghe Fish Balls (永和鱼丸)

A fish-ball shop on Nanhou Street, in the middle of Sanfang Qixiang, with a range of fish balls and meat swallows and a well-stuffed centre. It sells them to take away too, which makes it a good place to stock up on a local speciality.

Order
Fish balls, meat swallow, mixed platter
Where
89 Nanhou Street, Gulou District
Phone
0591-87502905

Snacks · Everything local

Weizhongwei (味中味)

A long-standing snack house where a single visit covers most of the Fuzhou repertoire, from fish balls and meat swallow to nine-layer cake and spring rolls. Unpretentious and quick, and a good way to work out which local dishes you want to eat again.

Order
Fish balls, meat swallow, nine-layer cake, spring rolls
Where
Central Gulou District
Phone
Local landline — confirm on arrival

Sleeping

Where to stay

Wusi Road is the hotel district. Staying near Sanfang Qixiang or the city centre puts the old town on foot; prices rise over the National Day and Spring Festival holidays.

Chain hotel · from ¥189

Jinjiang Inn (Railway Station)

A reliable chain hotel at the railway station, with the airport and long-distance bus stations minutes away on foot. Not a scenic location, but convenient and cheap if you are arriving or leaving by train.

Price
Rooms from ¥189
Where
41 Qinyuan Road, Jin'an District
Phone
0591-87589898

Chain hotel · from ¥183

Home Inn (Sanfang Qixiang)

The best-located chain hotel in town: a minute's walk from the Sanfang Qixiang pedestrian streets and beside the century-old Antailou restaurant. Simple, central and hard to beat for a sightseeing base at this price.

Price
Rooms from ¥183
Where
39 Bayiqi North Road, Gulou District
Phone
0591-88870777

Apartment hotel · from ¥130

Modern World Apartment Hotel (Apollo)

An apartment-style hotel on the south side of the river, opposite the long-distance bus station and near several parks. Cheerful, convenient and good value, with the city centre a short ride away.

Price
Rooms from ¥130
Where
2 Wuyi South Road, Taijiang District
Phone
0591-83289991

Boutique · from ¥188

Fuzhou COCO Palm Boutique Hotel

A boutique hotel near the railway and bus stations in the north of the city, close to the airport bus stop and convenient for arrivals and departures. Comfortable and modern, without the price of the central luxury hotels.

Price
Rooms from ¥188
Where
424 Hualin Road, Jin'an District
Phone
0591-88687888

Getting around

Arriving, and moving about

Buses are flat-fare and cover the city; Mawei and Gushan are both long enough away to warrant a taxi or the sightseeing bus.

By air

Fuzhou Changle International Airport (FOC) is the province's main international gateway, built on the coast 55 km southeast of the centre, with a fast road and hourly airport buses into town.

Airport
Fuzhou Changle International (FOC)
To the centre
Airport bus, about 90 minutes; the drive on the fast road is similar
Note
It is a genuinely long way out — allow time for the transfer

By rail

Two main stations: Fuzhou Station in the north of the city and Fuzhou South across the river. High-speed trains link both to the whole eastern network, with Xiamen about 2 hours away.

Fuzhou Station
North of the centre, on Hualin Road · 0591-87050222
Fuzhou South
Cangshan District, south of the river
To Xiamen / Shanghai
About 2 hours / a few hours by high-speed rail

Fuzhou South is across the river and a longer ride from the old town. If Sanfang Qixiang is your base, aim for Fuzhou Station where the timetable allows.

Sightseeing double-decker

Fuzhou runs a sightseeing bus loop aimed at visitors, threading the main sights — West Lake, Sanfang Qixiang, the Min River parks and Zhongting Street among them — with commentary and on-board Wi-Fi.

Route
A loop of the main central sights
Fare
About ¥5 single, ¥10 for a day ticket; more at weekends and holidays
Tip
Buy the day ticket and hop on and off; it is a cheap orientation tour

City buses & metro

Buses are flat-fare and go everywhere; a metro system covers the main central axis. Together they are the cheapest way to move around the old town and the riverfront.

Bus fare
¥1 flat, most routes
Metro
Covers the central axis and the main districts
Coverage
Old town, West Lake, the river and both stations

Taxis

Plenty of taxis with honest meters, and cheap for a city of this size. Use them for Mawei and Gushan, where the buses are slow and indirect.

Day rate
¥10 flagfall, then ¥2 per km over 3 km
Night rate
20% surcharge from 23:00 to 05:00
Note
Ride-hailing apps work well across the city

Long-distance buses

Three main long-distance stations — North, South and West — run services across Fujian and to neighbouring provinces, with 300-odd departures a day. Useful if you are looping onward through the province rather than backtracking by rail.

Main stations
North (by the railway station), South (Wuyi Road), West (Hongshan Bridge)
Routes
Across Fujian and to Zhejiang and Guangdong
Note
Tickets are also sold at counters around the airport and stations

Shopping

What to take home

Fuzhou's traditional crafts are the point here — the edible souvenirs are good, but the lacquerware and stone are why you are in this city.

Bayiqi Road and Dongjiekou

Fuzhou's oldest and busiest shopping streets, and the city's main commercial district, running down towards the river. The place to start for general shops, malls and a sense of the city's everyday centre.

Zhongting Street

A historic shopping street on the south bank of the Min River, now a long mixed market of clothing, homeware and small goods under one roof. Good for a browse and for anything you forgot to pack.

Shoushan stone and bodiless lacquerware

Fuzhou's two signature crafts: Shoushan stone, carved into seals and ornaments and one of China's four classic seal stones, and bodiless lacquerware, made with a technique so old it ranks alongside Jingdezhen porcelain and Beijing cloisonné.

Jasmine tea

Fuzhou is the heart of China's jasmine-tea country, and the local tea has set the national standard for centuries. Buy loose-leaf from a proper tea shop, taste before you commit, and take home a tin.

Practical

The numbers to save

Staffed English help is not guaranteed. Save these before you need them.

Emergency (police / ambulance / fire)110 · 120 · 119
Fujian Provincial Hospital134 Dong Street, Gulou District · 0591-87557768
Tourist complaints and information0591-83355312 (Fuzhou Tourism Bureau, 15F Jinyuan Plaza, Guangda Road)
Post officeSanfang Qixiang post office, inside the Nanhou Street district
BankingMajor banks cluster around Dongjiekou and Bayiqi Road; cards and mobile pay work widely
TippingNot expected and sometimes politely refused — do not add a tip to the bill
VisaMany nationalities now enter China visa-free for short stays — confirm your passport's status before booking
RainFuzhou is one of the rainiest cities in China — keep an umbrella and a light rain jacket with you year-round

Tips

Small things that save a trip

Aim for October or November

Autumn gives Fuzhou its clearest, coolest days and the most sunshine of the year, and it is the best window for the old town and the mountain alike. Spring is the green alternative; summer is hot and very wet.

See Sanfang Qixiang twice

Once in the late afternoon for the courtyards and the halls, and once after dark when the lanterns come on and the crowds thin. It is a different district at night, and much the better for it.

Take the cable car up Gushan

The climb is steep and the humidity is real. Ride the cable car up and walk down, or start early enough to do both on foot — either way, go in the morning, when the mountain is still in mist.

Order Buddha Jumps Over the Wall in advance

The signature dish is a slow-braised pot that takes real preparation, so tell the restaurant a day ahead. Do it in one of the old houses, and treat it as the meal of the trip rather than a casual dinner.

Give Mawei its own half-day

Mawei is a long way downriver, and the museums and pagoda are worth the trip on their own — so do not try to squeeze them between two city sights. Go out, see it properly, come back in the afternoon.

Carry an umbrella every single day

Fuzhou is among the wettest cities in China, and the rain arrives without much warning in spring and summer especially. A compact umbrella and a light jacket will earn their place in your bag more here than almost anywhere.

Background

Why Fuzhou looks like this

Geography and climate

Fuzhou sits in a river basin in eastern Fujian, ringed by hills on all sides — Gushan to the east, Qi Mountain to the west, Wuhu Mountain south — with the Min River, Fujian's largest, flowing through the city to the sea at Mawei. The basin and the subtropical monsoon climate give it hot, long summers and short, mild winters, an annual average of about 20°C and roughly 1,350 mm of rain, spread across the year.

That rain is the price of the greenery: Fuzhou is a city of banyan trees, which give it the nickname City of Banyans, and of rivers and lakes that shape how it is laid out. It is one of the rainiest major cities in China, so the umbrella is not optional.

History

Fuzhou was founded in 202 BC and has, for most of the two-and-a-half millennia since, been the political and cultural centre of the region. It is the capital of Fujian, one of China's designated historic cities, and — with the Tanshishan Neolithic site nearby — home to a culture that stretches back more than 5,000 years. From the Song dynasty on it was a great centre of scholarship, producing more imperial scholars and academicians than almost any other city.

Its place in modern history is larger than its size suggests. It was one of the five treaty ports opened to foreign trade after the Opium War, the base for the Fuzhou Arsenal and naval academy from 1866 — which made it the cradle of China's modern navy, its modern industry and its modern engineering education — and the ancestral home of a large part of the overseas-Chinese diaspora. Its old lanes at Sanfang Qixiang, its temples and its riverside dockyards are the physical record of all of that.

Travel with them

Fuzhou on screen and in print

Not guides — a documentary, two books and a local opera, that show the city the way the people who love it see it.

Film

Sanfang Qixiang (documentary)

Dir. CCTV, 2006

A six-part documentary, thirty minutes each, on the lanes and the extraordinary people who came from them — the reformers, sailors, scholars and revolutionaries who shaped modern China. It is the best single introduction to why a small quarter of courtyard houses matters as much as it does.

Book

Min Travel Sketches (闽游滴沥)

Yu Dafu

Essays written by the great modern writer Yu Dafu after his travels through Fujian in the 1930s, with Fuzhou at their centre. Elegant, observant and personal — a window onto the city and the province before the modern age, from someone who was paying proper attention.

Book

A Letter to My Wife (与妻书)

Lin Juemin

Perhaps the most famous letter in modern Chinese history, written in 1911 by the Fuzhou revolutionary Lin Juemin to his wife on the night before his execution in the Huanghuagang uprising. It is short, devastating and entirely of this city — his family home still stands in Fuzhou.

Music

Min Opera (闽剧)

Fuzhou's local opera tradition

Fuzhou's own regional opera, sung in the Fuzhou dialect and performed in the city for centuries. Even if you do not follow the words, an evening of it — staged in the local halls and village theatres around the province — is the sound of the city rather than a museum of it.

The questions visitors ask us most about Fuzhou, answered plainly.

Frequently asked questions

Prices and practical details are reviewed every month by our Beijing team and updated the day a rule changes.

How many days do I need in Fuzhou?

Two days for the essentials and three to do it properly. Day one is the old town around Sanfang Qixiang, West Lake and the downtown low hills; day two is Gushan and a temple. A third day is what makes Fuzhou feel complete — that is Mawei and its naval museums, half a day on their own, plus time for the hot springs.

Is Fuzhou worth visiting, or should I just stay in Xiamen?

It is a different trip and worth both. Fuzhou is older and quieter, with the Ming lanes of Sanfang Qixiang and the naval history of Mawei, and it is only about 2 hours from Xiamen by high-speed rail — so people often do one on the way to or from the other rather than choosing between them.

What is the best time to visit Fuzhou?

October and November first, for clear cool days and the most sunshine of the year, then March to May for the green season. Winter is mild and dry rather than cold, around 10–18°C. Summer is hot, humid and wet. Fuzhou is one of the rainiest cities in China, so an umbrella is standard kit all year.

What should I eat in Fuzhou?

Start with the fish balls — the local ones hide a pork filling — and 'meat swallow' wontons with their paper-thin wrappers. Then lychee pork, taro purée and guobianhu rice soup. The signature banquet dish is Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, a slow-braised pot of 20-odd ingredients, and it is worth ordering ahead in one of the old restaurants.

How do I get to Fuzhou, and around it?

Fly into Fuzhou Changle (FOC), 55 km from the centre and about 90 minutes by airport bus, or take high-speed rail — Xiamen is about 2 hours, Shanghai a few. In town, buses are ¥1 flat, there is a metro, and taxis start at ¥10. The sightseeing double-decker loop is a low-effort way to cover the main sights.

Is Sanfang Qixiang free to visit?

Yes. The Three Lanes and Seven Alleys is a free, open, 40-hectare historic district of Ming and Qing courtyard houses, most of them intact and some still lived in. Individual halls inside may charge, but the lanes themselves cost nothing and are at their best in the evening.

What is there to do around Fuzhou?

Gushan and Yongquan Temple for half a day on the mountain, Mawei for the shipyard and naval museums, and the West Lake and Yu Mountain parks inside the city. Fuzhou is also a hot-spring city and the centre of China's jasmine-tea country — both worth building half a day around.

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  • Two days for the old town and a mountain; a third for Mawei and the hot springs.
  • Sanfang Qixiang — the Three Lanes and Seven Alleys — is a free, 40-hectare Ming and Qing quarter.
  • Gushan and its 1,000-year-old Yongquan Temple are a half-day; a cable car does the climb.

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