City guide · Taiwan, China

Taiwan travel guide: a 12-day loop from Taipei to the mountains and the south coast

Night-market alleys, high-mountain railways, and a coastline that changes character every hundred kilometres.

  • Known forNight markets, high-mountain railways, temples, east-coast cliffs, tea
  • Typical spendCNY 6,000–8,000 for 12 days
  • Ideal length12 days for the full island loop
  • PaceModerate — long rail hops every second day

Reviewed by our Beijing team Updated 2026-10-10

The short version

Taiwan, China is worth 10 to 12 days if you want the full loop: Taipei for 3 days, then Sun Moon Lake, Alishan, Tainan, Kaohsiung, Kenting and Hualien before flying out. Budget roughly CNY 6,000–8,000 per person for 12 days including high-speed rail, a hostel bed from NT$400 a night, and street food at NT$50–200 a meal. September to November is the sweet spot — dry, clear and past typhoon season — and the Taiwan High Speed Rail runs Taipei to Kaohsiung in about 2 hours.

  • The classic 12-day route runs Taipei → Sun Moon Lake → Alishan → Tainan → Kaohsiung → Kenting → Hualien → Taipei, and the High Speed Rail covers the west coast at 300 km/h.
  • Free public Wi-Fi is everywhere: iTaiwan and TPE-Free cover all Taipei MRT stations, major attractions and many buses — register once and the account works island-wide.
  • Alcoholic drinks, fresh fruit, cured fish and meat cannot be brought in; you may carry up to NT$60,000 in cash and must declare foreign currency over US$10,000.
  • Most museums and galleries — including the National Palace Museum — close on Mondays, so plan your Taipei days around that.

City guide

First impressions

Photographs from the coast, and what other travellers wrote afterwards.

Taipei 101 rising over the Xinyi district at dusk
Taipei 101 rising over the Xinyi district at dusk
The Alishan forest railway climbing through the cedar belt
The Alishan forest railway climbing through the cedar belt
Sun Moon Lake at dawn, the Lalu peninsula splitting the water
Sun Moon Lake at dawn, the Lalu peninsula splitting the water
Kenting's south coast, where the island runs out of land
Kenting's south coast, where the island runs out of land

I keep getting asked whether Taiwan is really as good as everyone says, and whether it's worth going back a second time. I always answer without hesitating: I love it, and not only for the scenery and the food — Taiwan makes all the things you imagined actually true.

Luoxufenfei, 'Taiwan: the most familiar strange place'

Something about the food there — old or inventive, familiar or completely new — quietly closes the distance between me and the place. In a city I've never lived in, I end up feeling unhurried and completely at ease.

Bi'an Claire, 'First taste of Taiwan'

Taiwan, China fits a surprising amount into a small island: you can drink coffee in a 24-hour bookstore in Taipei in the morning, ride a narrow-gauge forest train through Alishan's misty cedars by afternoon, and eat grilled squid on a beach in Kenting that same night. The west coast is fast, modern and dense with high-speed rail; the east coast is cliffs, tunnels and almost no development at all.

What pulls most travellers back is the texture of daily life. The Taipei MRT is spotless and quiet, with priority seats left empty out of habit. Temple incense drifts over a night market where a bowl of oyster vermicelli costs NT$55. A grandmother in Lukang will correct your pronunciation of a place name and then walk you to the corner you were looking for.

This guide is built around the classic 12-day loop, with real ticket prices, train times, and the honest version of what each stop is worth. If you only have five days, do Taipei plus one mountain — trying to bolt the whole island onto a short trip is how people end up exhausted and remembering only the inside of a bus.

Taiwan, China

Don't leave without

Seven things that are worth rearranging a day for.

  1. Ride the High Speed Rail from Taipei to Kaohsiung — 345 km in about 2 hours, window seat on the left for the western plain
  2. See sunrise from Alishan on the forest railway, then walk the giant-cedar trail before the day-trippers arrive
  3. Eat your way down a night market: Shilin in Taipei, Fengjia in Taichung, Liouhe in Kaohsiung
  4. Stand at the edge of Taroko Gorge in Hualien — and wear the hard hat they hand you, the marble really does fall
  5. Walk Tainan's old lanes around Chihkan Tower and the Confucian Temple, the city that was the island's capital for 200 years
  6. Watch the sun drop behind the Love River in Kaohsiung, then take the ferry across to Cijin for seafood

Highlights

Five reasons Taiwan earns its reputation

Taipei packs 5,000 years into one

The National Palace Museum holds over 650,000 artifacts — Shang and Zhou bronzes, jade, ceramics, calligraphy — with roughly 8,000 pieces on display at any time and the rest rotated every three to six months. At 160 TWD for the main exhibition hall, it is the single best-value cultural stop in the country.

Sun Moon Lake is worth the overnig

Ringed by green mountains, the lake is split by Lalu Island into a sun-shaped east half and a moon-shaped west half. Day-trippers see it for two hours; stay one night and you get the mist at dawn and the glassy reflections at dusk that everyone photographs. Entry is 100 TWD; boats run 100 TWD per leg or 300 TWD for the full loop.

Alishan gives you sunrise, sea of

The mountain delivers five things at once: sunrise, sunset glow, cloud sea, ancient cypress forest and the narrow-gauge logging railway. Take the little train up from Chiayi, sleep on the mountain, ride to Zhushan for dawn. Weekend full fare is 200 TWD, half fare 100 TWD.

Kenting is the tropical south the

Taiwan's southern tip gives you white sand, warm water and a national park with forest, grassland and coral coast all in one. Rent a scooter, ride the peninsula, and you understand why 'The Most Distant Place' was filmed here.

The night markets are the actual c

Shilin alone draws a crowd that never seems to thin. Night markets are where Taiwan's real food lives — oyster omelettes, beef noodles, stinky tofu, shaved ice — and a full meal costs 50–200 TWD. Skip the restaurant and eat where the queue is.

Itinerary

Two ways to spend three days (extendable to the classic 12-day loop)

Taipei in depth

3 days days

The north in three days: the big museums and viewpoints on day one, the old harbour and hot springs on day two, the misty mountain towns on day three. Built for people landing at Taoyuan and not wanting to rush.

  1. Day 1

    Palace Museum, Martyrs' Shrine and

    Start at the National Palace Museum when it opens at 9am — the tour buses arrive an hour later and the jade gallery gets wall-to-wall. After lunch hit the Shilin Residence (100 TWD) and the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, where the guard change at the top of each hour is the thing everyone films. Finish on the 89th-floor observation deck of Taipei 101 (400 TWD full fare, last tickets 21:15) and eat your way through Shilin Night Market on the way home.

    Stops: National Palace MuseumShilin ResidenceChiang Kai-shek Memorial HallSun Yat-sen Memorial HallTaipei 101Shilin Night Market

  2. Day 2

    Beitou hot springs, Tamsui and the

    Mornings in Beitou are for the hot springs — the public pool at Longnai Tang is 70 TWD for 30 minutes, family pools 100 TWD per person, open 08:30–21:00. Visit the Hot Spring Museum and Thermal Valley, then take the MRT to Tamsui for the afternoon: Hongmao Castle, the old street, A-gei and iron eggs. Get to Fisherman's Wharf before 5:30pm — the sun drops behind Lover's Bridge and the whole pier stops to watch.

    Stops: Beitou Hot Spring MuseumThermal ValleyTamsui Old StreetHongmao CastleFisherman's WharfLover's Bridge

  3. Day 3

    Jiufen, Jinguashi and Pingxi by tr

    Ride the TRA to Ruifang, change onto the Pingxi Line and hop off at Jingtong — the old timber station at the end of the line. Then take bus 825 up to Jiufen, walk the 300-plus steps of Shuchi Road from the police station up to Jiufen Elementary, and drink tea in an old teahouse while the sea fog rolls in. Jinguashi, ten minutes away, is the old gold-mining town that supplied the sets for A City of Sadness.

    Stops: Ruifang StationJingtong StationPingxi LineJiufen Old StreetShuchi RoadJinguashi

The west coast loop, southbound

3 days days

The first three days of the classic 12-day island circuit — Taipei to Sun Moon Lake to Alishan — for travellers who want to see what the loop feels like before committing to the whole thing.

  1. Day 1

    Taipei to Taichung and Sun Moon La

    Take the HSR from Taipei to Taichung (roughly every 15 minutes from 6:30am, about 1 hour), then the Nantou bus from Taichung Gancheng Station to Sun Moon Lake — about 90 minutes, 180 TWD on the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle. Check in, then do the lake circuit by boat: Shuishe, Xuanguang and Ita Thao piers, 100 TWD per leg. Stay lakeside if you can; the colour of the water changes by the hour.

    Stops: Taipei Main StationTaichung HSR StationTaichung Gancheng StationSun Moon LakeShuishe PierXuanguang TempleIta Thao

  2. Day 2

    Sun Moon Lake to Alishan

    Catch the 9am Yuanlin bus from Sun Moon Lake to Alishan, or go via Chiayi and take the shuttle up. Check into a mountain guesthouse, walk the forest trails among the giant cypresses to Sisters Pond, and eat before 7pm — kitchens on the mountain close early. Set an alarm: the Zhushan sunrise train leaves in the dark.

    Stops: Sun Moon LakeAlishan National Forest Recreation AreaSisters PondSacred TreeAlishan Village

  3. Day 3

    Sunrise on Alishan, then down to T

    Ride the forest railway to Zhushan for sunrise — you are above the cloud sea, and when it works it is the best 200 TWD you will spend in Taiwan. Back down, take the narrow-gauge train to Chiayi, then a train or bus south to Tainan. End the day at Chihkan Tower and whichever night market is open — Dadong or Garden, depending on the day.

    Stops: ZhushanAlishan Forest RailwayChiayi StationTainanChihkan TowerGarden Night Market

Sights

What is actually worth your time

Taipei · half a day

National Palace Museum

The world's deepest collection of Chinese imperial art, and the reason many people come to Taipei at all. The bronzes, jade and ceramics are rotated constantly, so you never see the same museum twice — the full collection on display would take nearly 30 years to work through. Go at 9am on opening, take the jade cabbage and the meat-shaped stone first, then loop back.

Address
No. 221, Sec. 2, Zhishan Rd, Shilin District, Taipei
Entry
160 TWD main hall, 20 TWD Zhishan Garden
Hours
Sun–Fri 9:00–17:00, Sat 9:00–20:30; closed Mondays and national holidays
Getting there
MRT Shilin Station, transfer to bus Red 30; or buses 213, 255, 304, 18, 19

Tip Buy your ticket and head straight to the third floor before the tour groups clear the entrance hall — by 10:30 the jade gallery is shoulder to shoulder.

Nantou · overnight

Sun Moon Lake

A mountain lake that genuinely lives up to the postcards, split by Lalu Island into a sun-shaped half and a moon-shaped half. Boats loop between Shuishe, Xuanguang and Ita Thao piers, and the lakeside bicycle path is one of the best rides in Taiwan. The ropeway up to Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village is a 300 TWD round trip.

Entry
100 TWD
Boats
100 TWD per leg, 300 TWD full loop
Getting there
Guoguang bus from Taipei West Station (460 TWD, 2 daily weekdays, 4 at weekends); or Nantou bus from Taichung Gancheng Station, about 180 TWD
Hours
Open all day

Tip Stay one night. The lake at 6am, before the tour boats start, is a completely different place from the lake at noon — and there is nothing to do in the area after dark except eat and sleep, so book somewhere with a view.

Chiayi · 1–2 days

Alishan National Forest Recreation

Taiwan's most famous mountain, and still worth it despite the crowds. The forest railway, the ancient cypress groves, Sisters Pond and the sunrise from Zhushan are the four things to tick off. The mountain sits above the cloud line often enough that sunrise here is a genuine gamble — but a sunrise above a sea of cloud is unforgettable when it lands.

Entry
200 TWD full fare at weekends, 100 TWD half fare
Getting there
Alishan Forest Railway from Chiayi Beimen Station, or shuttle bus from Chiayi
Best time
Sunrise train departs in darkness; check the time when you check in
Warning
The road up has endless hairpin bends and fog — do not drive it tired

Tip Book the sunrise train the afternoon you arrive, not the morning of. It sells out, and the guesthouse reception will do it for you in two minutes.

Pingtung · 2 days

Kenting National Park

The tropical south: white sand beaches, coral coast, grassland and forest inside one national park. Rent a scooter and ride the peninsula — Hengchun old town, the lighthouse at Eluanbi, Jialeshui and Baisha Bay are all within an easy half-day loop. This is where Taiwanese come for their own holidays.

Getting there
Bus from Kaohsiung (about 2 hours) or HSR to Zuoying then shuttle
Getting around
Scooter rental is the standard way; bring an international licence
Best season
Year-round, but autumn and spring avoid the worst heat and typhoons
Stay
Kenting Main Street for night food, Hengchun for cheaper rooms

Tip Do not try to see Kenting from Kaohsiung as a day trip. The bus alone eats four hours of your day and you will spend the rest of it sweating on a beach towel.

New Taipei · half a day

Jiufen Old Street

A former gold-mining town stacked up a hillside above the sea, now a maze of teahouses, snack stalls and staircases. Shuchi Road, the long flight of steps from the police station up to Jiufen Elementary, is the shot everyone comes for. It is said to have inspired parts of Spirited Away.

Getting there
TRA to Ruifang, then bus 825 to Jiudaokou
Best time
Weekday evenings — weekends are a crush of tour buses
Combine with
Jinguashi gold-mining museum, 10 minutes away
Eat
Taro balls, fishball soup, peanut ice-cream rolls

Tip Arrive by 4pm, stay for dusk, and take the bus down after the day-trippers have gone. The lantern-lit stairways after dark are the whole point, and the last buses back to Taipei still run late.

Food

What you'll actually be eating

Beef noodle soup

The national dish. Braised beef shank, chewy handmade noodles, dark star-anise broth. Taipei's Lin Dong Fang and Yongkang Beef Noodle are the usual pilgrimages, and a good bowl costs NT$150–250.

Night market small eats

Shilin alone will feed you for NT$200. Oyster omelette (NT$60–80), giant fried chicken cutlet (NT$70–90), stinky tofu (NT$50–70), and pepper pork buns you queue 20 minutes for.

Ding Tai Fung xiaolongbao

Steamed pork soup dumplings at NT$180 a basket at the Xinyi Road original. Anthony Bourdain called it the world's best restaurant chain and the wait list agrees — book or go at 2pm.

Ay-Chung flour-rice noodles

A bowl of NT$40–55, eaten standing up outside on Emei Street with a plastic spoon because there are no seats. The house broth is the whole point.

Pineapple cake and pearl milk tea

Chun Shui Tang in Taichung invented bubble tea and still sells it for NT$50–70 a cup. Buy pineapple cakes and nougat from the Breeze food court at Taipei Main Station if you don't want to hunt down individual shops.

Where to eat

Four tables worth planning your day around

Xiaolongbao · Taipei

Din Tai Fung (Xinyi Road flagship)

The original branch, and the one foreigners mean when they say they went to Ding Tai Fung. Expect a 30–60 minute queue at peak hours; the xiaolongbao are NT$180 a basket, the vegetable-pork dumplings and the chicken soup in a clay pot are the sleeper hits.

Address
No. 194, Section 2, Xinyi Road, Da'an District, Taipei
Hours
Weekdays 10:00–21:00, weekends 09:00–21:00
Phone
02-2321-8928
Price
NT$180 per basket of xiaolongbao, about NT$500 per person

Street food · Ximending

Ay-Chung Flour-Rice Noodle

You eat standing on the pavement, spoon in hand, in a crowd of locals doing exactly the same. The thick starchy soup with intestines is an acquired taste and a Taipei rite of passage. It's cheap enough to order two bowls.

Address
No. 8-1, Emei Street, Wanhua District, Taipei
Hours
11:00–22:30, until 23:00 on holidays
Phone
02-2388-8808
Price
NT$40–55 per bowl

Fried chicken · Taichung

Bao Bao Chia Jiang Ji Pai (Fengjia

A bone-in chicken cutlet fried in a custom batter, sauced and topped with house pickles — nine sauces to choose from. It's inside Fengjia Night Market, so eat it while walking between stalls. Open until 01:30, which is when it hits hardest.

Address
No. 528, Fuxing Road, Fengjia Night Market, Taichung
Hours
15:00–01:30
Phone
0936-953119
Price
NT$45 per cutlet

Tea house · Taichung

Chun Shui Tang (Dun 19th Street fl

The teahouse that started the global bubble tea craze. Order the pearl milk tea, then stay an hour — this is a sit-down cultural experience, not a to-go counter. The jade lemon and matcha latte are also house classics.

Address
No. 9, Dun 19th Street, Taichung
Hours
Weekdays 08:30–23:30, weekends 08:30–24:00
Phone
04-2327-3647
Price
NT$50–70 per cup

Where to sleep

Three bases that actually work for a loop trip

Hostel · Zhongshan, Taipei

Taipei Home International Youth Ho

The only government-registered hostel in Taipei, tucked into a quiet office district with 40-plus bus routes and the Xingtian Temple MRT across the road. Airport buses drop you at the door. Book two months ahead in high season — it fills up on reputation alone.

Address
11F, No. 293, Songjiang Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei
Phone
(+886) 2-2503-5819
Price
Double NT$1,380/night, 4-person family room NT$2,200, dorm bed NT$550
Booking
Two months in advance recommended

Boutique hotel · Songshan

Hotel Quote Taipei

Designed by Chen Jui-hsien, the man behind the Eslite Xinyi flagship, and paired with Bar 333 downstairs. Serious coffee machine, iPod docks, service that reads your mood. It's the pick if you want a stylish Taipei base within a few MRT stops of everything.

Address
No. 333, Section 3, Nanjing East Road, Songshan District, Taipei
Phone
(+886) 2-2175-5588
Price
From around NT$4,000–6,000 per night

Hostel · Sun Moon Lake

Sun Moon Lake Youth Activity Cente

Right on the lake near Ita Thao, with 75 rooms ranging from Tang-style suites to forest cabins. Staying overnight is the whole point — you get the lake at dawn before the tour buses arrive. Bring a Youth Hostel card for the discount.

Address
No. 101, Zhongzheng Road, Riyue Village, Yuchi Township, Nantou County
Phone
(+886) 49-285-0070
Price
NT$750 per person per night in a 4-person room with YH card, breakfast included
Note
Book ahead for weekends and holidays

Getting around

How to reach Taiwan and move around the island

Flights into Taiwan

Most international arrivals land at Taoyuan International Airport, about 40 km from central Taipei. Songshan Airport sits right in Taipei and handles many cross-strait and regional flights, while Kaohsiung's Xiaogang Airport takes some Southeast Asian and mainland routes. Direct flights from major Asian cities run daily, so you rarely need to route through Hong Kong unless you want to.

Main hub
Taoyuan International Airport (TPE), ~40 km from Taipei
Bus to Taipei
NT$110–140, about 1 hour, 7 coach companies, 24h desks in T1 arrivals
Taxi to Taipei
Metered plus 15%, roughly NT$1,300
City airports
Songshan (TSA, Taipei) and Xiaogang (KHH, Kaohsiung)

High-speed rail (THSR)

The THSR runs 345 km down the west coast from Taipei to Zuoying (Kaohsiung) in about 2 hours at up to 300 km/h, stopping at Banqiao, Taoyuan, Hsinchu, Taichung, Chiayi and Tainan. It is the fastest way to link Taipei with Taichung, Chiayi (for Alishan) and Kaohsiung. Book online or at station machines; seats rotate 180 degrees so groups can face each other.

Route
Taipei–Zuoying, 8 stations, ~2 hours
Hours
06:00–23:30
Taipei–Taichung
NT$393, about 1 hour, trains every 15 min
Booking
Online, station counters, machines, or convenience stores

Regular rail and scenic lines

Taiwan Railways covers the whole island with dense stops and useful branch lines. Trains are graded from fastest to slowest: Tze-Chiang (Ziqiang), Chu-Kuang, Fu-Hsing, ordinary and local; only ordinary and local skip seat reservations. On the east coast the fastest service is branded Taroko. The Pingxi branch line and the Alishan Forest Railway are attractions in their own right rather than just transport.

Taipei–Taichung
NT$393, 2h15
Taipei–Chiayi
3h30 (gateway to Alishan)
Taipei–Zuoying
4h50
Student rail passes
5-day NT$599, 7-day NT$799, 10-day NT$1,098 (no Tze-Chiang)

Metro, buses and taxis

Taipei and Kaohsiung both have clean, signposted metro systems; Taipei's covers almost every major sight and runs 06:00–24:00, NT$20 to NT$50 per ride. City buses cost NT$15 (NT$12 for students and police) and do not give change, so carry coins or an EasyCard. Taxis are yellow, start at NT$70 for 1.5 km, add NT$5 every 300 m, and charge a 20% night surcharge between 23:00 and 06:00.

Taipei metro
NT$20–50, 06:00–24:00, one-day pass NT$200
EasyCard
NT$200 (NT$100 deposit), 20% off metro fares
City bus
NT$15 flat, no change given
Taxi
NT$70 start, +NT$5/300 m, +20% after 23:00

Shopping

What to actually buy in Taiwan

Pineapple cakes and pastry boxes

The classic gift, sold everywhere from airport counters to the Breeze Center at Taipei Main Station, where you can buy brands from all over the island in one stop. Look for the ones with real pineapple jam rather than winter-melon filler, and check the expiry date — most keep only 10 to 14 days.

Nougat and tea

Chewy milk nougat, often studded with cranberries or nuts, travels well and packs small. Pair it with Sun Moon Lake Assam black tea or high-mountain oolong from Alishan — buy loose-leaf from a proper tea shop rather than a souvenir stand and you will taste the difference at home.

Taiwanese editions of books and de

Eslite and smaller independent shops sell beautifully printed Chinese-language books, stationery and design objects you will not find elsewhere. The original Eslite Dunnan store on Dunhua South Road is open 24 hours, so it is a genuine late-night shopping option.

Creative souvenirs and cosmetics

Ximending and the Xinyi shopping district carry local cosmetics, sheet masks, illustrated tote bags and quirky accessories. Prices on imported brands are often lower than on the mainland, and staff are famously patient — expect to be helped even if you only browse.

Practical

Practical information before you fly

Taipei runs about 20–30% pricier than the centre and south. A basic double room in a minsu averages around NT$1,500 a night, more on Friday, Saturday and public holidays, so book ahead for weekends and the Lunar New Year, 228 Peace Memorial Day and New Year's Day, when locals travel too.

CurrencyNew Taiwan dollar (NT$). Roughly 1 CNY = 4.6–4.7 NT$. Notes come in 2,000, 1,000, 500, 200 and 100; coins in 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1. Change money at the airport on arrival — rates are better than in Hong Kong.
Cards and ATMsAbout 80% of ATMs accept UnionPay, and more than 6,000 shops take mainland UnionPay cards. Look for UnionPay-marked ATMs at 7-Eleven, FamilyMart and post offices.
LanguageMandarin is understood almost everywhere; you will hear more Taiwanese (Minnan) and Hakka in the centre and south, where asking a younger person for directions works best. Signs are in traditional characters, which most visitors can read.
Phone and internetSIM cards are sold on the spot at Taoyuan, Songshan and Kaohsiung airports, at carrier shops and at 7-Eleven with two IDs. Free Wi-Fi is widespread: 7wifi works at over 4,800 7-Eleven stores, and TPE-Free covers metro stations and many public buildings.
Power110V with flat two-pin sockets. Phone, camera and most laptop chargers work fine; a three-pin laptop plug needs an adapter. High-wattage appliances like hairdryers will not work — borrow one from your hotel.
Entry rulesMainland independent travellers need three things: the Exit-Entry Permit, the Taiwan Entry Permit and a personal tourism endorsement. Stays are capped at 15 days. Fruits, vegetables, cured fish and meat cannot be brought in; undeclared cash over US$10,000 equivalent is confiscated.
Emergency and etiquetteAmbulance 119, police 110. Country code +886, no time difference with Beijing. Give up the priority seats on the metro, stand on the right of escalators, and remember many museums close on Mondays.

Background

Four hundred years of history in one small island

From Formosa to the Republic of Ch

Portuguese sailors passing in the 1500s called this island Ilha Formosa — the beautiful island — and the name stuck for centuries. Taiwan sits about 180 kilometres off the southeast coast of mainland China, roughly 394 kilometres long and 144 kilometres at its widest, with a spine of mountains running down the middle that tops out at Yushan, 3,952 metres, the highest point in Northeast Asia. That geography explains almost everything: why the west coast is flat, crowded and full of cities, why the east coast is cliffs and gorges, and why you can go from a subtropical beach to a cloud forest in a single day.

Who lives here, and what they eat

The island layers several cultures on top of each other. Indigenous Austronesian peoples — the Amis, Atayal, Paiwan, Bunun and a dozen more — were here for thousands of years before Han Chinese migrants arrived from Fujian and Guangdong in the 17th century, followed by waves of mainlanders after 1949. Hakka communities kept their own cooking and architecture; Japanese colonial rule from 1895 to 1945 left behind hot springs, railway lines and bento culture. The result is a food scene that borrows from everywhere: beef noodle soup from Sichuan via Taipei, oyster omelettes from Fujian, braised pork rice from the south, and a night-market vocabulary that no other place on earth quite matches. For a deeper dive into the food culture, see our Taiwan food and night market guide.

How to read the island

Think of Taiwan as four trips in one. The north is Taipei: museums, hot springs, a 508-metre tower and the best public transport in the country. The centre is mountains and lakes — Sun Moon Lake, Alishan, the misty highlands. The south is old towns and sunshine: Tainan's temples and lanes, Kaohsiung's harbour, Kenting's beaches. The east is drama: Taroko Gorge, the Qixingtan pebble beach, the coastal road that everyone photographs. Most first-timers do a 10 to 12-day loop; if you have less, pick two regions and go deep rather than sprinting around the whole island.

Reading & Watching

Books, films and music to load before you fly

Film

A City of Sadness (1989)

Hou Hsiao-hsien

The film that made Jiufen famous before the tourists arrived, and the one that gives you the 228 Incident and the White Terror era in human terms. Watch it before you walk the stairs of Shuqi Road and the tea houses will look different.

Book

The Crocodile and the Lion: Taiwan

Compiled from oral tradition

Short, strange folk stories — including the Sun Moon Lake legend of the dragons who swallowed the sun and moon, and the fisherman Dajian and Shuishe who won them back. Read it on the bus to Nantou and the lake will mean more than a photo stop.

Music

Jiu Fen de Coffee Shop — and every

Chen Qizhen (Cheer Chen)

The unofficial soundtrack of the Taipei hills. Play it on the train to Ruifang, then again in a Jiufen tea house at dusk. For the other end of the spectrum, Wu Bai and Mayday are what the south actually sounds like.

The questions visitors ask us most about Taiwan, China, answered plainly.

Frequently asked questions

Prices and practical details are reviewed every month by our Beijing team and updated the day a rule changes.

How many days do you need to see Taiwan, China properly?

Ten to twelve days for the full loop — three in Taipei, then Sun Moon Lake, Alishan, Tainan, Kaohsiung, Kenting and Hualien with a night or two in each. Five days is enough for Taipei plus one mountain, and anything shorter than that and you'll spend most of it on trains.

When is the best time to visit Taiwan, China?

September to November. The autumn skies are clear and cool, typhoon season is largely over, and temperatures sit in the low twenties. Spring (March to May) is also good but wetter. July and August are hot, humid and squarely in typhoon season, and winter in Taipei is damp and grey — though the south stays pleasant.

Is the Taiwan High Speed Rail worth it, and how do I book?

Yes — it cuts Taipei to Kaohsiung from 4 hours 50 minutes on the regular train to about 2 hours. Tickets run NT$1,490 for a standard seat on that route, and you can book online, at station counters, at the automatic machines, or at any convenience store with the HSR logo. Trains run roughly every 15 minutes between 6am and 11:30pm.

How much does a trip to Taiwan, China cost per day?

Plan on CNY 500–670 (about NT$2,300–3,100) per person per day, covering a hostel or budget hotel bed from NT$400–1,500, street food at NT$50–200 a meal, and public transport. Taipei is the most expensive city; Tainan, Kaohsiung and Hualien are noticeably cheaper. A 12-day trip lands around CNY 6,000–8,000 all in.

Do I need cash, or can I use a UnionPay card?

Carry cash. Roughly 80% of ATMs accept UnionPay cards, and about 6,000 merchants — mostly large department stores and chains — take them, but night markets, small noodle shops, temples and taxis are cash-only. Change money at the airport on arrival; the rate is better than in Hong Kong if you're transiting there.

What should I know about safety on the east coast and in the mountains?

The four places that need real attention are the Suhua Highway (prone to landslides after heavy rain — check the forecast first), Taroko Gorge (falling marble; wear the provided helmet), Alishan (poorly maintained trails and foggy, winding roads, so don't drive tired), and Yehliu Geopark (don't cross the red warning line, the waves are genuinely dangerous). Elsewhere, anywhere a public bus reaches is generally fine.

Related reading

Related reading

Visas Do I Need a Visa for China? Requirements, Costs and How to Apply China's entry rules changed more in the last three years than in the previous twenty. Here is exactly who needs a visa, what it costs, how long it takes and which passports now walk straight through. 9 min read Visas China's 240-Hour Visa-Free Transit: Who Qualifies and How It Works Ten days in China with no visa application, no fee and no fingerprints — if you hold the right passport and leave for a third country. Here is the rulebook, port by port. 8 min read Money Paying in China: Alipay, WeChat Pay, Cards and Cash Roughly nine in ten urban payments in China now run through a phone. Set up two apps before you fly, carry a modest cash float, and you will never be stuck at a till. 8 min read Transport China's High-Speed Rail: How to Book, What It Costs, How Fast It Goes The fastest way to cross China is also the most pleasant. Here is how to book a ticket with a foreign passport, what the three classes actually give you, and how to survive a Chinese station at rush hour. 9 min read Planning Best Time to Visit China: Month by Month, Region by Region China is the size of Europe, so 'the best month' depends on where you stand. Here is the month-by-month answer for the north, the Yangtze valley, the south and the plateau. 8 min read Planning What to Pack for China: The Complete 2026 Checklist Twenty thousand steps a day, three climate zones and a phone that has to do everything. This is the list we give our own travellers, minus the things they never used. 7 min read Food Chinese Food Culture: Eight Cuisines, One Table There is no such thing as Chinese food. There is Cantonese, Sichuan, Hunan, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, Anhui and Shandong — and knowing which one you are eating changes everything. 8 min read Traditions Chinese Tea Culture: Six Classes, One Pot, Two Fingers Tea in China is not a beverage category, it is a social technology: it fills silences, seals deals and sets the pace of a meal. Here is how to sit down in one and not look lost. 7 min read Traditions Chinese Festivals: The Calendar, the Dates and the Crowds Lunar dates mean the calendar moves every year — and two of the festivals move several hundred million people at once. Plan around them or plan into them, but never by accident. 8 min read Etiquette Chinese Etiquette: What Matters, What Does Not, and Why Most etiquette advice for China is either obvious or wrong. These are the dozen behaviours that actually change how you are treated, and the reasoning behind each. 7 min read

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  • The classic 12-day route runs Taipei → Sun Moon Lake → Alishan → Tainan → Kaohsiung → Kenting → Hualien → Taipei, and the High Speed Rail covers the west coast at 300 km/h.
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  • Alcoholic drinks, fresh fruit, cured fish and meat cannot be brought in; you may carry up to NT$60,000 in cash and must declare foreign currency over US$10,000.

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